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alternator voltage fluctuations

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by termin8ed, Jan 11, 2009.

  1. Jan 11, 2009
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2002
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    Just thought I'd share with everyone. Something I found out today on my dad's jeep.

    He was trying to install a Delco 10si alternator instead of the generator and was having issues with the voltage fluctuating between 12 v and as high as 19 volts. it was fast and erratic.
    It finally wouldn't even start and its been bugging him all week so I finally went over there with some parts from wimpy to see what was going on.

    He put a new coil, a set of points in with my condenser, cap and rotor, and coil wire. It started and ran fine. the alternator also was working just fine. Started out about 13 v and once it revved up leveled out to 14v steady. So once that was going good we started swapping his parts back onto the distributor untill the condenser was left. He was going to give me some money for another one since it was in, but I need it to plow tomarrow because of a house showing. So we took my condenser back out and put his back in just for the fun of it.

    The alternator was bouncing all over the place again. Somehow that condenser is screwing with things and causing some kind of feedback or something to the voltage regulator.

    Just thought this may help someone in the future...
     
  2. Jan 12, 2009
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
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    Wow, good job figuring that one out.

    Sounds like the condenser was on it's way out and causing an intermittent short circuit. When I've seen a bad condenser it has had an intermittent open circuit (probably caused by burning out due to too much current flow due to first having this short circuit problem you found).

    Cool.
     
  3. Jan 12, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    I sure would be interested to know if you put his condenser on your jeep if it did the same thing. There is something very wierd here and doesn't seem electrically logical. You should not be able to spike the battery voltage to 19v unless your having an intermittent open circuit in the output or unless your just reading an over travel on the voltmeter needle swing. Any voltage varriance in the distributor circuit should be swamped by the isolation between the primary to secondary windings in the coil. Are you sure you have the ign wire hooked to the + on the coil and - to dist?
     
  4. Jan 12, 2009
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    the only reason we saw the voltage fluctuate was because of the new install of the alt. didnt check on mine but my condensor worked fine and we swapped his in and problems came back. he's going to replace the spark plug wires too. someiow inducing a voltage spike back thru the coil and affecting the voltage regulator?
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  5. Jan 12, 2009
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    im thinking the condensor was doing something to the regulator to make it "think" it needed to crank the output of the alternator up to charge the battery. thats why it was going up to19 volts
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  6. Jan 12, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I hear what your saying but the coil by design is a few windings in the primary + side versus many many windings in the - neg side is a stepped up volt/amp condition whereas going the other way, voltage induced by the discharge of the condenser into the many many windings of the coil secondary, would cause minimal voltage spike in the primary side + as it is step-down back towards the ignition? If the coil is connected backwards, does not have an internal resistor and he is not using a ballast resistor, then there is a possibility this voltage fluctuation could exist back into the ignition circuit. Does any of this make sence or am I way overboard?
     
  7. Jan 12, 2009
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    I'm with you Walt, makes no sense whatsoever- no way should a condensor, whether shorted or open ,affect the voltage regulator. Shorted = no run, open = fried points. The only thing I can think of is that.. no, wait, that wouldn't do it either:cry: It could be there's something strange about how the alternator is hooked up but it would have to be very strange.:rofl:

    Anyone got any theories?

    H.
     
  8. Jan 12, 2009
    camionetta

    camionetta Assistant Junior Member

    Tempe, AZ
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    I agree, but even shorted, the condenser would act like the points were closed. If this is a three
    wire alternator, then the voltage regulator tries to keep the voltage at the sense wire constant.
    Maybe there is a bad connection or bad ground there. If it is a one-wire alternator its harder to see
    what could be going on.
     
  9. Jan 13, 2009
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    well. he put a new condensor in and it didnt work. ill type a better response when i get a chance at work-keyboard
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  10. Jan 13, 2009
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    I understand what your saying about the coil. Just thought maybe if the condenser was shorting to ground it was messing with the regulator.
    He's getting a new set of plug wires today. The old ones are about 2 years old and when I measured the resistance on them it was .1 ohms. My coil wire I brought was about 4k ohms. maybe the low resistance in the wires is causing noise to the regulator...

    The other thing he's got is the battery feed to the alternator output goes thru a kill switch, thru the dash ignition switch, back out to the alt. Its alot of wire. He has bypassed this so a jumper wire went right from the + battery to the alt output. But the rest of the wiring was still hooked up in the dash. He's going to check under there and make sure there isn't any loose connections or chaffed wires causing a short to ground. Told him if he didn't see anything disconnect it all and just go basic with battery to alt, alt to starter and jumper wire to ignion coild. Trying to see if the wiring's a problem somewhere.

    The grounds should be good. He has the battery - going to the engine mount, same stud he's got this monster ground braided cable about 1 1/4" going directly to the back of the alternator and bolted to the alt case. He cleaned the battery terminals and got a new positive cable also.

    The coil is new, hooked up + to ign feed, - to points. coil goes to the dist;) Internal resistor, no external ballast resistor.

    makes me want to think its somehow distributor related. Just becuase thats all we really messed with, and it WAS working fine when we had my stuff on and all the way up till he put his condenser back in. Unless we bumped something around it and didn't realize it.

    He's getting the plug wires today and going to check the wiring also so I'll check back in and let everyone know what happened.

    One other thing. The 2 wire connector that plugs in the side has a resistor going across both terminals. Is this necissary? I had my spare apart last night and noticed an internal resistor that looks to be doing the same thing. Too much resistance across the two terminals?? I had disconnected it when we swapped parts around and thats when it worked fine. But it was also hooked back up before we swapped condensers and it was working fine once with it connected.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2009
  11. Jan 13, 2009
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    copper core plug wires don't work good with modern electronics.........

    thought the .1 ohm reading was goofy. My coil wire must have helped out enough to get it working.

    He replaced the wire set and no problems anymore.
     
  12. Jan 13, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Hoooorrrraaaayyyyy..
     
  13. Jan 14, 2009
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
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    Are you talking about the plug that goes on the back of the alt? Is this the wiring that would normally go either through a warning light on the dash or you could use a diode? If that's it what you're looking at may be the diode and not a resistor.
    I assume you've already looked on the madelectrical web site that explains this way better than I could.

    Sounds like it was the plug wires anyway.
     
  14. Jan 15, 2009
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    That would be the one.
    You know what, that makes sense. I'll bet thats what it is. I just assumed it was a resistor.
     
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