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Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Malachai, Dec 3, 2008.

  1. Dec 3, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    Wiring is complete, the beast starts just fine....getting it to stop is another story...me and dad think it may be a bad ignition switch, since it doesnt spring back to kill the starter switch after turning the key to start, we have to turn it back manually. Ended up pulling the battery cable in order to shut it off...anybody have this problem before??
     
  2. Dec 3, 2008
    trickpatrick

    trickpatrick Done? LOL

    North Idaho USA
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    Nov 29, 2006
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    838
    I know some people have had problems with the alt feeding back through the ing and keeping the rig from turning off this happens in after market or home made wiring jobs on occasion.

    You can search this and find answers.

    Did the switch work before the rewire?
     
  3. Dec 3, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    Do not know, its a new switch, this is its first test...
     
  4. Dec 3, 2008
    trickpatrick

    trickpatrick Done? LOL

    North Idaho USA
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    Well could be a bad switch.

    Just test it with a gauge or a lightbulb.
    Hook up to the ing. tab and see if you have power when its in the off position with the jeep not running.

    If no juice..

    Then try it with the jeep running and turn off the key and see if there is voltage on the ing. tab while its running if their is you are getting feed back.
     
  5. Dec 3, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    So, if it is alt feedback, what do I have to do to stop it? I think I got the wiring all correct, but I could be wrong...I tried a couple searches but couldnt find anything
     
  6. Dec 3, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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  7. Dec 3, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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  8. Dec 3, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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  9. Dec 3, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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  10. Dec 3, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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  11. Dec 3, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    holy schnikees!! How did I miss those...must have been searching the wrong thing...thanks billy!
     
  12. Dec 3, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    Hope it helps!!!!!!!!1:beer:
     
  13. Dec 3, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    half of what is in there is greek to me, but I think I got the gist...dad wants to test a few of the things mentioned in there, but he had to go to work, so gotta wait til tomorrow.
     
  14. Dec 3, 2008
    DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    San Angelo, Texas
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    If I remember right :rofl:, you're using a Mopar alternator with two posts. The BAT post on the alternator has a wire labeled "ALT POWER" that goes to the fuse block and the other post has a wire that goes to the "FLD" terminal on a relay mounted to the firewall, then from the "IGN" terminal on the relay back to the fuse block on a wire labeled "ALT EXCITOR".
    You're not using the warning light on the speedometer are you? If not, then you will need either a diode or a 10~15 ohm resistor wire to prevent "feed-back" to the ignition system.
    The diode is spliced in-line with the stripe toward the alternator. It can be located anywhere in the wire, but it needs to be insulated (tape or heatshrink) to keep it from shorting to ground. The diode or resistor wire takes the place of the "AMP" light (warning/idiot light) on the speedometer. I found this information in an installation manual and tech guide provided with an alternator wiring kit I ordered from M.A.D. Enterprises (www.madelectrical.com).
    I have a diode that I'm not using if you need it. PM me and I'll mail it. :)
     
  15. Dec 4, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    DKillam: I mentioned this to dad, but he said that we had disconnected the wire on the second post of the alt completely and started it, and it still would not shut off. He thinks we may have a bad switch at this point, we are going to do some more tests later this morning...
     
  16. Dec 4, 2008
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Yep-- that ign sw with spring loaded return to ON is not doing it's job of internally disconnecting power. Thats my guess.
     
  17. Dec 4, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    its going to be longer than I thought to test the electrical now, unless I hook up an IV bag to The Beast....the seams that I thought I got JB Weld'd have popped back open again...going to have to wait til a new tank gets in, ordering a new sending unit while I am at it....fun times...
     
  18. Dec 4, 2008
    trickpatrick

    trickpatrick Done? LOL

    North Idaho USA
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    Grab a rope your sliding into oblivion:)

    Start a list or you'll lose track of the repairs you need to plan.

    Got to love it......
     
  19. Dec 17, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    So, I replaced the ignition switch, and the beast still will not shut off when I turn the ign off. I went so far as to disconnect the alternator completely, well, minus the ground wire, and still have the problem. We think we have everything hooked up right, but could be wrong... Any ideas on what else besides alt feedback could be causing this?

    EDIT: Disregard, seems when Dad wired this up initially, he put the coil wire on the Bat side of the ignition switch, moved it to IGN and everything is good with the world! Have the top sitting inside the house so I can put it on tonight, and maybe go get it registered tomorrow.......finally! :D
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2008
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