Will it Hold

When replacing my front drive axels with a pair of Spicers that I got from Jim I stripped two of the female threads on the left knuckle when putting the spindle on. I rethreaded the holes 7/16 and torqued everything to 25fp. One of the 7/16 holes stripped again and would not tighten with the lock washer on. I took the lock washer off and used red thread sealer and it torqued to 25fp.
Will it hold without the lock washer?
Thanks,
Tommy

 

I'd rather see you turn that bolt around if possible and put a nut on it.
or maybe get a 7/16 diam button head and come from the inside with a nut as well.
you really need all the strength you can get there.
I suppose in a pinch you could even run a 5/16 bolt thru the backside and nut that as well.

 

Put the spindle on without the bolts and rotate it about 20 degrees and redrill and tap all holes. I would put short setscrews in the old holes with locktite.

 

PLEASE Buy yourself a new knuckle. They don't cost that much. Besides what is your life worth and the lives of the people around you?.
Be safe Be happy

 

X2 what Lynn posted.

 

I was hoping not to have to remove the knuckle because everything is new and set to spec.
Can a buttonhead screw be installed from the inside with the axle removed???
Tommy

 

depends
on the position of which one is damaged
not all hole surfaces on the back side are level
that's where the spot checking comes in for a flat surface for the bolt head to rest against
which one is damaged ?

 

I read the tech articles. Sure wish there were some photos.
9 o'clock has been rethreaded w/ 9/16 and seems to hold with 25fp. of torque.
1:30 is the one needing the screw from the backside. I could not find a button head so I bought a socket head with the thought of grinding it down.
I am using Commando knuckles to accommmodate dual tie rods. This issue is on the driver side and I have a regular CJ knuckle that looks a little different but I believe measures the same. Should work, huh?
Can a knucke be brazed and re-tapped???
I hate to ask dumb questions but I really appreciate the help.
Tommy

 

Braze just isn't going to cut it. Not strong enough. You'd pull the threads out, I think.

Bad threads in cast iron can be fixed, though with a thin casting it might not work as well. But the idea is you overdrill the hole. Maybe for this application you'd drill and tap a 3/4" hole. Then you'd run a die over a chunk of cast iron bar. Thread it into the casting with the meanest, baddest, most permanent type of threadlocker available. I'm talking special order stuff here. Mill the front flat, drill, retap. Too much work for what you're doing, though.

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/steering/knuckleStud/index.php

 

Thanks for the article, Jim. I just sandblasted another knuckle but I prefer to use the current one so I will get some 3/8" button head screws tomorrow and see if I can fix it. I'm thinking that brazing and retapping using button head screws from the back should work. What say you???
Tommy

 

I don't know how you're planning to use the Jeep, off-road or otherwise.
It's also much easier to do this work at your convenience, taking your time, in your own garage or workshop,
rather than along the highway somewhere, or out in the boonies....been there, done that.
If you're going to be pulling the knuckle off anyway, I'd say replace it; it's just not worth taking a chance, and having to do it all over again. ( or do the knuckle stud conversion on all holes for the knuckle)
Good used knuckles are easy to find; since it's the driver side, nothing special about that knuckle. You might run across different styles and thickness of arms, but they are pretty much all the same.
9/16" hole diameter is getting pretty thin in material next to the edge of the knuckle.
I vote for fix it right the first time, and no more worries or concerns.
not what you wanted to hear.........but that's my opinion.

 

Louisiana
did I spell that right ?

edit: yes I did

 

Thanks to all. I have been convinced to use a spate knuckle and do the button head conversion.
Should I go back and retorque the right side to 35fp or is the 25fp OK?
This photo shows the difference between the Commando knuckle(R),being replaced, and the CJ knuckle(L). Is there any reason that the knuckle on the left won't work???
Tommy

 

nope
as long as it's the same side

 

Just a final follow-up.
After stripping the threads on TWO different knuckles ( both at 30FP ) I went back to my original knuckle and brazed the holes that were stripped and rethreaded them. I used 1 1/4" buttonhead screws from the inside. torqued them down tight with red thread locker and did a light braze on the head of the two screws in the repaired holes. I used nuts and lockwashers and torqued to 30FP.
Everything seems to be OK but the question remains--- Will it hold?
Tommy

 

ought to do the trick