Help! Wiring in remote starter Solenoid

I have a 350 in my 66' CJ5. With the headers over the starter and solenoid they get heat soaked and won't start at in-opportune times. So, I am trying to attach a ford remote solenoid to act as a relay on the fender well as this seems to be a popular method to solve the problem. I am having a hell of a time figuring out the correct wiring for this task. My old set up only had 3 wires.(wire from the battery to the battery terminal of the solenoid, wire from a switch board type deal going to the battery terminal of the solenoid, and lastly another wire coming from the same switchboard to the (s) terminal on the solenoid. This switchboard I am reffering to is a 8"x2" bracket attached to the firewall that has 20 screws side by side going up and down. My ignition switch was only connected to the battery and miscellaneous accessories. If anyone has any experience with this type of a deal or knows any place special to find out how to wire this I would appreciate it. There are a few different online articles but they all do it differently.

 

First off, the GM starter solenoid operates the forks to engage the bendix.. No matter how many fender mounted solenoids you have, it won't help if the solenoid mounted on the starter is not operational. You cannot bypass this unit. If you think that heat is causing high resistance in wiring going to the solenoid, causing intermittant start then put a 10 gauge wire from ignition sw start terminal down to the "S" term on starter sol. Also would help to double the heat shield over the solenoid with an air gap between the shields.

 

The GM solenoid is operational, but just gets hot from the headers. I will try your advice and put a 10 guage wire on there but I don't think that will solve it. I think the remote solenoid is the way to go. Can you tell me why the only two wires going to the GM solenoid originally were coming from that swithboard on the firewall and not directly from the ignition switch? Most all diagrams I have see show a wire coming from the neutral safety switch to the (s) terminal on the GM solenoid and then another wire coming from the ignition switch to the positve battery terminal. Since I don't have a neutral safety switch, should it come directly from the ignition switch to the (s) terminal?

 

As Walt points out, the solenoid on the GM starters also moves the starter gear into the flywheel, so you have to use it. You don't gain anything by adding another solenoid. I suggest making a heat shield to go between the starter and header pipes. A plain piece of sheet steel with air on both sides will help a lot.

 

Chevy always had a problem with the starter and solenoid getting too hot and not operating again until they cooled off.

The solution then was to place a heat shield between the starter/solenoid and the exhaust. If that aint enough then maybe a cool air tube that will flow fresh cool air onto the starter under the shield. Don't know if that is even possible though.

Thermal wrapping on your headers if you are using them.

 

Best solution is a mini starter. Higher torque, much smaller and better.