CJ5 Rear Axle

I'm new here so please ignore the screwups! I have a 1980 CJ5 with a one piece flanged rear axel. As it takes a Green bearing I'd like to switch to the kit that takes a normal bearing, such as Timkin. Can someone tell me what I'm looking for and where to get it? The Green bearings are getting pretty rare and pricey. Thanks!

 

Re: CJ5 Rear Axel

I believe you want a "set-10" bearing. it is not tapered, and comes with a collar that holds it in place. The part number may have changed since I bought one 10 years ago. Most auto parts stores have them or can get them. If they can't find it, have them look for the same bearing for a 75 cj-5.

 

Re: CJ5 Rear Axel

Thanks for the info, however the axels in the AMC 20 rear differential in my Jeep will only accept Green bearings. This morning I found the axel kit I was looking for that take regular bearings plus two seals. The price for both axels, all associated parts & delivery is $267 from J T Parts in Wenatchee, WA.

 

Re: CJ5 Rear Axel

What the heck is a Green Bearing?

 

Re: CJ5 Rear Axel

Green is the name of the company who makes the bearing to fit the axel I preiviously described! The kit I ordered eliminates the need for that bearing.

 

Re: CJ5 Rear Axel

Google is your friend!

http://www.ebearing.com/news2003/022701.htm

 

Re: CJ5 Rear Axel

My goof. I thought you had an 86 with a Dana. I now understand you have the 20 with the flanged axle kit.

 

I've just received the kit to get rid of the Green bearing. It includes a spacer between the inside of the housing and the bearing. After inserting the spacer and placing the bearing into the housing against the spacer, the directions say that the bearing should stick out .030-.080 from the outer face of the housing. If not, grind it off. My question is: with a retainer holding the bearing in place, what function is the spacer providing? I'd like to leave it out, as my back yard measuring equipment says that the bearing is sticking out ~.180 so I'll have to mill it down. Besides that, the top of the housing is rusted a bit so the spacer doesn't want to sit straight. I'd apprieciate a response from someone who is familiar with this setup!

 

The bearing bore in the AMC 20 housing is deeper that the thickness of the bearing. The spacer is there to prevent the bearing from going too far into the housing. The .030 to .080 spec allows the bearing outer race and spacer to be preloaded against the inner seal thus preventing the bearing from spinning in the housing and capturing it in place between the brake backing plate and inner seal to control end play.

 

That all sounds reasonable but I've got to wonder, why does this bearing need a spacer when the one I just took out did not need one? Everything about the two axel setups are identical, including the width of the bearings---the only difference being that one takes a Green bearing and the other one takes a Timkin. One more thing, I didn't understand what you were saying about a preload on the inner seal. The directions say to make sure that the spacer does not touch the seal. Mine lacks about 1/4" of hitting.

 

That's very interesting because the instructions for my kit shows the bearing spacer butted up against the inner seal. When I did the installation, I stuck the spacer in the housing and the bearing on top of it. On one side I had to take a few thousands off the flange end of the spacer to get the bearing to sit at proper depth. The tech support technician at the manufacturer told me to do this. Maybe the spacer wasn't sitting up against the seal but it sure looks that way in the daigram provided with the instructions. Further, then why would they make the spacer as long as it is?

 

That was my question, why make the spacer at all? With the retainer holding the bearing outboard and the backplate bolted in place, the bearing isn't going anywhere!

 

The backing plate holds the bearing from coming out of the housing but the spacer is needed to keep the bearing from going too far into the housing. In the one piece set up, the set 9 bearing controls individual axle shaft end play so the bearing needs to be captured. In the stock setup, axle end play control is dependent on the opposite axle via the differential thrust block.

 

The simple answer I got from the machinist in town was that the Green bearing is a ball bearing and needs no preload. The Timkin bearing is a roller bearing and needs the preload. He took .100 off the spacer & I installed it. Everything seems to be fine. There is no way to measure the preload but when I installed the axle & tightened it there was no end play and the axle turned. I put the Jeep back in the garage and assume that it is O.K.

 

When you install the axles, make sure they spin freely with no binding or excessive drag. If there is binding or excessive drag, it may be very possible that the two axles are bottoming out on the differential spacer (thrust) block. You can check for binding if you have an open diff by spinning the axles and seeing if they spin fairly freely, but it's difficult if you have a LS or locker. That has been one of the reasons for bearing failure in AMC 20 1 piece axle installations. In one piece axle installations, the thrust block does not get used and can actually be removed because the Set 9 bearing type will contain the axle end play. Actually, the bearing does not get preloaded. During installation, the outer race gets "captured under load" between the backing plate and bearing spacer. This is what holds the bearing in position. The bearing roller is not preloaded in the race as in a differential pinion or diff side bearing installation.

 

Edit: If question exists as to whether the axles are botooming out on the thrust block, I would pull the diff cover and have a look. Heck, if you got the diff cover off, might as well pull the spacer block if your ratio allows you to pull the cross shaft without removing the ring gear.

 

Right or wrong, the axle is in and runs nice & cool. The problem is, the brake drum gets scorching hot. When I pull it off, the brakes are hot also. I've backed them off like I've done for 60 years and they get hot. I backed them off incrementally until the adjuster is about to come apart, and the drums still get hot. I've checked & rechecked the installation of the brakes---the springs feel like every spring I've ever hooked up. The shoes are seated properly. I've spun the wheel, depressed & released the brake pedal and the wheel spins freely again. What is wrong?

 

Are the brakes smoking? Is the heat really coming from the brakes or could it be the axle bearings? Brakes make the familiar smell when they're really hot can you smell the brakes?

 

The first time it got hot I smelled grease & there was smoke coming out of the drum, although when I pulled the drum there was grease on the wheel but I could not see where it came from. Everything looks dry! The next several times (6 or 8) after I had backed off on the adjustment & pulled the drum, the only things hot were the drum and the brake shoes. The backplate and the area around the axle were cool. Also, each time I drove it down the driveway & back I felt the right side drum. It was always cool. I later drove it to town (16 miles), stopping once to cool it down each way. The weird thing is that, feeling all the way around the drum some places are hotter than others. And, the hottest spots seem to move, as I stop to check it. Make sense? Not to me!

 

Wierd.