carter yf choke heater tube (diagram / pic pls)

hello,
first timer here...diving into my jeep headfirst and fixing problems as they arise (only had it a few months)

i was inspecting the carb because of some backfiring and idling problems, and found that the metal tube from the choke was screwed onto the carb housing fine, but the other end was rusted off and missing... i am not 100% sure where it goes and my manuals don't really say either, so i am looking for some help. i found a small hole on top & center of the exhaust manifold which is rusted and open, but appears to have no threads...is this where it should go?

i should also mention that the jeep has a manual choke on the dash which is not hooked up very well as it was not mounted to anything under the hood so it was slipping a lot. it seems to me that i could use one or the other, but do i really need both? :?

thanks,
Kyle

 

It's been covered before - did you search? Try 'choke stove'

I think the best option is to get one of these kits: https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-...nd=ALL&vsrch_cat=ALL&vsrch_range=ALL&vTime=63

The choke cable should be securly mounted in the dash, and the exterior sheath of the cable attached firmly at the engine end. The inner cable clamps to the arm that moves the choke butterfly.

Welcome from Boston!

 

thanks for the tip timgr. unfortunately the link only works if you are signed into the site...any chance you could tell me what product to search for or send me another link? meanwhile i will search for 'choke stove' (was searching for choke tube...).

also, do you think i need both your 'mystery product' AND the manual choke?

thanks,
kyle

 

Huh. Doesn't work for me now either. I've never logged in there...

Just go to www.dormanproducts.com and do a keyword search for "choke stove".

No, the manual choke replaces the choke stove stuff. Normally the YF has a thermally activated choke, using a coiled bimetal spring to open the choke plate. The stove is just a source of heated fresh air, drawn from a pocket in the exhaust manifold. The choke stove will be a small vacuum leak if it's not either in the pocket or plugged, so don't leave it open.

Do you have the factory service manual (FSM)? If not, there is a '72 manual online at www.c104.net - there were only minor changes between '72 and '73. I suggest you check out the chapter on the YF carb.

hth!

 

I just went through this... I installed a Choke Stove replacement kit from Car Quest. It does not work as designed. Buy a manual choke kit and install it.. it took me maybe 30min. and works perfectly. now my CJ starts on demand and I contol when the engine should slowly unchoke....

 

oh yeh... it comes with a little cone thing that you hammer in the original choke stove hole in the block. it stops the vaccum leak that Tim mentioned.

 

Maybe that's not clear. The connection to the carb will be a vacuum leak - the stove in the exhaust manifold is just a pocket, with no connection to anything but the atmosphere and the pipe to the carb. Plug the connection for the choke stove at the carb to stop a vacuum leak.

 

thanks guys for all the help. i am going to get a rebuild kit for the carb and plug the choke stove at the carb as you say (and leave the other end open)... but any ideas on what to plug it with since i am not going to waste the cash on the kit?

 

ahhh I see. I have inspected where the choke stove enters the carb, it doenst look like an area that needs to be plugged. doesn't air just flow through the stove choke entrance and then flow to the coil? mine runs fine and is not plugged. where does the vaccum come into play? Is there another way for air to move in that area?

 

I have a spare manual choke kit with all the parts. pay shipping and its yours. it was on my jeep when I bought it. I tore it off and went original but couldnt make it work, so I bought a new manual choke kit and put it on. I still have the one I took off somewhere.

 

Heated air won't move into the choke cover unless there's a vacuum to bring it there. The vacuum comes from inside the carburetor. If you look in the FSM linked to above, you'll see a cutaway of the YF with the vacuum pasage and restriction orifice.

 

You could maybe crimp the pipe closed and solder or glue it completely closed.

 

ok, guys...gr8 news! yesterday i rebuilt the carb, crimped the pipe, soldered it closed, and hooked up everything EXCEPT the choke and my baby is running again and ready for the weekend! thanks so much for all the help guys, none of the people i know who are capable of helping were available before the weekend. i feel lucky to have found you guys on this site - cheers!
Pokeman - i would be up for paying the shipping for that choke cable. how shall we proceed? wanna email me the costs for posting it to 30084?

Can't wait to play in the dirt again!