Back to the drawing board

I'm confused, how did the oil get in the cylinders if it was leaking from the rear main? Did you have an unnoticed oil leak which subsequently caused your low oil condition prematurely wearing components causing a surplus of upper cylinder lubrication? If so, what worn part caused the oil burning?

Good luck on your rebuild!

 

Ok for a lack of a better way of saying it, the rear main was in backwards and was leaving oil on the ground each time I ran her (some, not a lot, some would say a ton, I thought the transfer case had been over filled). I was not aware how much engine oil I was loosing, my fault, I was watching the oil level but had not run it for more than 20 min or so and it was never showing a large volume loss

Then the event came along, I ran her for 6 hrs straight hrs - I was having a blast

Apparently I blew most of the oil out the rear main, once the oil was low enough, within minuts, the main bearings ate themselves and the Valve seals went bye bye.

The engine did not overheat, but since I never changed the valve guides on the initial rebuild and now they are bad to the point I can wiggle the valve left to right, once the seals failed they allowed oil freely into the cylinders, through the intake valves.

That is where the smoke was comming from.

Hope that explains it better

 

OK, that makes sense. Sorry for the carnage.

 

That is way too much oil to be going past the guides. I would have to assume there is another culprate. The compression rings have a dot on them not the oil rings. Compression rings installed up side down will cause oil consumption. So will excessive end gap and not staggering the compression ring gaps. I just hope you find the problem so you do not have to go through this again! Also check the tee slot as others have suggested.

 

If any of these were the case wouldn't his compression have read low or uneven?

 

well now I am truly confused. I had a spare 134 Fhead from parting out another jeep. Since I scored the crank on the first engine from loss of oil and I was looking at 250 plus to get it ground, I figured i would look at the spare (eng #2) to see if I was better off freshining it up instead. the crank on engine #2 is perfect. I made sure to snap a ton of photos durring disassembly to make sure that things went back as needed and in the right way.

Why I am confused is because the way the rear main on eng 2 was in, tells me I had the rear installed correctly on the first go round. the valve guides are definatly better on eng.2.

So now I must believe that I had the "T" slots wrong? I am not sure of what the T slots are, I thnk they might be the notch in the bearings.

I know for the next rebuilt they will be correct because it was literally as much time snapping photos as is was turning wrenches, I got shots of each and every bearing - the direction they were in and their condition.

On the first build the rings were correctly installed, rear main was apparently correct. this time around, I will have the assistance of a trusted shop by my side.

We shall see and hope for the best. I just can't seam to pin point the cause of the oil getting into the cylinders from the top end, it was really wet with oil in the combustion chamber.

 

The Block and other engine parts are now at the machine shop. The gentalman whose hands it is in has a very good reputation and has been on the planet doing just this for longer than I have been alive (I'm in my 40's).

He asked me to be pacient as he only works part time now, but he is planning to replace the valve guides, bore the block and polish the crank. Since he will have to grind the seats when he replaces the guides I told him to go ahead and grind the valves even though I can do that and have the equipment.

I mentioned to him a place I found where I can order all of what I need in a kit made to request to rebuild this for under $200 - he wants a shot at that $$$ as well, so I told him - if he could get it for under $300, I'd use him.

Looks like I will be spending a min $600 - oh well. my method didn't work before (basic re-ring) and I really do not want to do this a third time. I figure rebuild it now, correctly and my grand kids and I will be laughing in a mud hole some day.