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dual MC, disc upgrade problem

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by nyejos11, Mar 19, 2008.

  1. Mar 21, 2008
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2003
    Messages:
    3,327
    Does your dual MC have a bolt on lid, that is factory, if it has a wire bail to hold the lid on its not a factory style, at least not for a 69-71.[/QUOTE]

    Good info, I did not know that. My original and replacement both have the bolt.
     
  2. Mar 21, 2008
    nyejos11

    nyejos11 Member

    Emmaus, PA
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2003
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    384
    Mine has the bolt in the cap. My setup looks just like these 2 pictures. I hope I loaded the pictures correctly.
    Josh
     
  3. Mar 21, 2008
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2003
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    3,327
    It looks like the front resevoir is going to front brakes.(pic 2) I flipped mine opposite of your set up and they worked great. Did you remove the residual valve in the M/C?
     
  4. Mar 21, 2008
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    Rear reservoir to the front disk brakes. And yes make sure your RPV in the master cylinder is removed.
     
  5. Mar 21, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Nov 6, 2002
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    That was my picture (the one on the right) and you are correct, I had the lines reversed at first. ;)
     
  6. Mar 22, 2008
    nyejos11

    nyejos11 Member

    Emmaus, PA
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2003
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    384
    My brother who has done this conversion on an oldMustang and old camaro thinks the problem is one of several things:

    A) MC pushrod is too long/short-Causing the piston to either not compress all the way or leave ports not covered. What is the length of yours????

    B) PO changed length of brake pedal shaft causing the pedal to hit floor before totally depressed.

    C) defective MC

    D) Fiberglass body tub is slightly at wrong spot/ not the right shape at the floor causing the pedal to "top out" or bottom out at wrong place.

    It does not feel spongy, just have to press to floor to stop, feels the same all the way down, stops but barely and in very much distance.

    My 8.5 on the repair scale has become 11 3/4 Ideas??

    Josh
     
  7. Mar 22, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    Adjust the rear brakes so that you have just a tiny bit of drag, if you haven't already done so. It's surprising how much pedal out-of-adjustment drums can take up..
     
  8. Mar 22, 2008
    nyejos11

    nyejos11 Member

    Emmaus, PA
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2003
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    384
    So far I have:

    Adjusted the rear brake shoes out until the wheels just barely spin. I also re-bled the MC. Same results. Next up, re-adjust length of the MC pushrod. If that doesnt work, lengthen pedal attaching rod.

    Josh
     
  9. Mar 23, 2008
    nyejos11

    nyejos11 Member

    Emmaus, PA
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2003
    Messages:
    384
    Thank you, thank you everyone for all of your help. The problem is solved. It was sort of a combination of two things. for one, the MC pushrod needed to be lenghtened a little. But mostly the PO had welded a piece of metal to the back of the brake pedal making the pedal hit the floor before it should. Removing the metal and loosening and moving the pedal up toward the driver's seat gave enough distance for the MC to be fully compressed. In the beginning I was just beginning to enter the effective part of the stroke.Now I can lock up the front brakes if I hit them hard enough.

    Thanks again
    Josh
     
  10. Mar 23, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    :beer:

    Glad you got it all sorted out Josh!
     
  11. Mar 24, 2008
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2003
    Messages:
    1,035
    "I love it when a plan comes together."
     
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