power steering gearbox

Long time reader, first time writer.

I would like to complete a power steering conversion on my 71 CJ-5 with the Dauntless and a Ross manual steering system. My wife wants to drive it, but the "muscle" required is a bit intimidating.

Would the power steering system (tilt column, pump, and gearbox) from a 1979 jeep truck work with the power steering conversion described in the tech section? These parts are available at a local junk yard for $100. It has a four bolt mount, but I am not sure if it is similar in other regards to a box out of a CJ with power steering.

Thanks for helping a newbie.

 

The box and pump will be good. A late '70s J20 box is about the best you can get. The mount is the same as in tech. Practically any column can be made to work, even the original (what I'm doing). The pump will be the same also. Bracketry is another matter, it is specific to the engine.:v6:

 

Thank you for the information.

 

Pulled the entire steering system out of the J-20. Time to start cleaning and looking at the fabrication process. Will the drag link, pitman arm, and/or tie rod be usable with a little modification?

The J-20 is still sitting in the junk yard with a V-8 and two axles under it if anyone in interested. Airway Auto Salvage in Battle Creek, MI

 

If you're talking about the J20 stuff, possibly. Definitely keep the pitman arm, it may work. You'll have to cut down the tie rod and drag link (make sure you still have enough threads left inside for proper adjustment)
If you're talking about the CJ stuff, about the only thing you keep is the cross steer TRE. You need a new knuckle to knuckle tie rod (use cross steer TRE on pass side and a right side TRE on driver's), a cross steer TRE to pitman arm drag link, and a new pitman arm. The tie rod and drag link can be purchased as a pair from AA, Herm's, and others. The pitman arm can be sourced anywhere from Flaps and junkyards to new. Advice on the pitman arm is hard to come by. I'll be doing it last to decide for myself.:v6:

 

Make sure you got the exhaust manifold exhausting the right way on drivers side or you will have pump install issues.

 

The exhaust is currently stock. By looking at the pictures, that is the wrong way for clearance?

 

The exit pipe needs to be at the back of the motor. I think a 231 manifold will work.

 

Yes it will .and yes you need it.
Front dump, and rear dump.

The stock one ( front dump) will be in the way.

 

it needs to be a 1978 or older to have the ports match up properly.

 

Anyone have one laying around they want to get rid of? If not, I need to look for a Buick of 1978 vintage or older with a 231 then?

Thanks for the info

 

OOOPs, I mean 1978 or newer

 

OK, 78 or older, is that the 3.2ltr?

 

I knew the heads weren't interchangeable between odd and even fire cause of water passage problems, but what difference is in the exhaust port layout?

 

I finally found a little "round to it" and am back at the project. The pump bracket from the J-20 definately does not work. Is there a particular year range I should look for when seeking a 231 pump bracket?

 

I am down to the tie rod set-up. The J-20 pitman arm tie rod end hole, on the Saginaw power steering box, is considerably larger than stock. Do I need a new pitman arm? Would it be cheaper to use the rods and pitman arm from Herm? Any thoughts on home engineering are appreciated.

 

An adjustment sleeve from a 1997 Cherokee, 2.5 ltr, fits perfectly between the stock tie rod ends!!!

 

Herm has nice heavy duty tie rods will also make custom ones.

 

I used the rods from Herm. No problems. Fit well, sturdy. You may have to cut a little off the end so you can have full adjustment for toe in. which is not abnormal.