A Few axle questions

I have been a member for a while now but I haven't been active in a while. My jeep has been put on hold for a while and I'm now getting back to working on it. Its a 57 willys cj5/m38a1 not too sure which it is. I recently found an 70's chevy pickup that I can have the axles out of. Im not sure what kind they are but I know they are free. Does anyone have any suggestions what to do with them and if I should use them? And about how much rebuilding them would cost? I'l post picks of the jeeps soon and hopefully the axles as well.

~Thanks
Kurt

 

70’s Chevy pickup? Front should be a Dana 44 or a Dana 60 and the rear is either a 10,12 or 14 bolt.
That number is a vague description of the size of the ring gear as that number indicates the number of bolts holding the ring gear to the differential carrier. It also coincides with the number of bolts holding the rear cover on, which makes them easy to identify.
For some time before the use of the Corporate 14 bolt rear axles, Chevy used Eaton axles for their 1 tons. It’s very similar to the 14 bolt but none of the parts will interchange.
Only other thing I can think of off the top of my head is GM axles are very wide, like +70 inches from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface.

Here’s a quick axle identification guide that should help you identify what you’re looking at.

http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml

If you should use the? Sure, as long as you don’t mind the width.
How much to build? No more than a typical Dana 44, or at least I’d assume. Corporate axles are all over the place so parts are comparatively cheap and easy to come by. The exception would be that Eaton axle, which are fairly rare so your gear choices are limited and after market support is nonexistent.

 

I'd for sure measure what the location of the pumpkin will be with the axles under the frame. You'll have to outboard the springs a lot for the front axle, and I'd think you would not want an axle that's so wide that the pumpkin is under the frame rail. The pickup's frame will be wider between the rails than the CJ frame, so the pumpkin could be offset from center a lot more. Not saying it won't work, but be sure to measure before you spend any money and/or start cutting.

If you want wider axles, Wagoneer axles work very well. Rusted out Wagoneers are cheap too. Lots of discussion of this in the past if you search the old posts.

 

Very good point. I’ve seen full width GM axles under CJ-5’s before so I know it can be done but I didn’t pay close attention to how far they had to outboard the spring mounts.

 

For the most part the spring mounts on the front will have to be outboarded basically right beside the stock framrails. It's not too complicated, and will work. The rear is simply moving the spring perches on the axle. As far as I know you have to go spring over with it because the spring sits just about beside the pumpkin in the front. You can rebuild the axles fairly cheap depending on how far you wanna go with rebuilding them i.e. gears, lockers, bearings, etc. Only thing I don't really know about is the steering because all the one's I've done have been fully hydro non street legal rigs. Most likely, like mentioned above, they could be 44, 10bolt, 12bolt, 14bolt, etc. Most likely if it's a 1/2 ton it'll be a 10bolt/12bolt, or maybe 44 front. 3/4 ton will be a 44/14bolt, and if it should happen to be a one ton it'll be a 60front and 14 bolt rear, in which case you should definately scrap the idea of swapping axles altogether and give those to me.

 

I do appreciate the advice, now comes the fun part of ripping them out of the old truck. Oh the joys of sawz-alls