Engine Crack

Is this fixable? I had to retap the last hole in the engine because the old bolt had sheared off. Unfortunately the drill went on a bit of an angle and I wound up with a hole in the engine block directly into the coolent line. I hope I'm saying this right. No oil comes out, just coolent. Is it fixable? It is in the rear of the engine in line with the last bolt attaching the manifold to the engine. The last three pictures were taken from inside of the cab pulling back the floor board.

 

If you have room I would tap that hole and using thread sealent plug it with a short bolt.

 

It is fixable. Tap the hole for a small tapered pipe plug and it will be fine. A straight thread bolt will work also if you use a good sealer.

RSN

 

I would use a pipe plug or have it brazed. Make sure if you tap for a plug, you do not run the tap in too far, or the plug will protrude into the coolant passage too far and will bottom out before the plug gats tight. It looks bad, but you can fix it!

 

What about JB Weld? Any comments? Unable to thread it.

 

I would try the drill and tap first, on that note we have a 4cyl diesel at work that was JB welded around a crack, and it has been leak free for about two years.

 

I can't tap where the hole is. It will interfere with the bolt holding the manifold to the engine block. I will remove the bolt and put some weld from the inside and push it to the hole, replace the bolt and put some more JB Weld on the outside. Thanks. -G

 

You can still tap and plug the hole. Remove the manifold and install the pipe plug. Then rethread the manifold hole with a bottoming tap. If the plug sticks too far into the bolt hole run a drill bit into it first to cut off the end of it.

 

We have a winner! Thank-you. -G

 

a little late in the thread, hope it all works out, i used marglass, like bondo, only fiberglass, it was on a big gasoline aircompressor,old one too, had a hole through the bottom part of the radiator tank, for hand crank to go through, it was cast iron, sombody had left water in it and that is where it decided to freeze and crack, had been welded up, still leaked really bad, filled hole with fiberglass never did leak again, just another "possible" option hope it works out for you

 

Appreciate it!

 

You could retap the hole to mount a permanent stud for the exhaust, rather than using a bolt.

 

ooooo! I like that one. Then fill in the hole with jb weld butting up against the stud. Good one.
Thank-you.:tea:

 

Just be careful when you go to remove the existing manifold stud. A little too much force and you'll break it off. Seen more than one like that, and you almost have to pull the engine to get good access to the hole. I would just run a bottoming tap in the hole you have and put a good sealant on the fastener you need in there. You were drilling out the sheared off bolt for a reason, right? I don't follow why you drilled out a sheared bolt to plug the hole w/JB???

 

The bolt sheared off when I removed the manifold. I tried to drill it out which I did. Unfortunately the drill bit went in on an angle and broke through the rear of the engine block, about an 1/8" diameter. There's not much room to work with. What I'm going to do is to retap the manifold hole to the next size and put a stud in there. Then I'm going to tap out the hole in the rear and put a bolt through it and jbWeld around it. The hole goes directly into the coolant line. -G