Oh man, big mistake I did it now

You will probably need to cobble up a tube to take the place of the choke heater tube. As far as I know, it's no longer available (NLA) as a repair part. In the past, copper tubing with the appropriate fitting(s) worked well for me. You may need to borrow someone's flaring tube for this.

By all means, try to tighten up the bolt or stud/nut holding the exhaust manifold in place, but don't go overboard on the torque or you'll end up drilling out a broken stud or nut. Soak all for a couple days in something like Liquid Wrench before attempting to retorque.

If the manifold ends up having to come off, be prepared to replace any studs/bolts that break off in the removal. Try to pull the exhaust manifold and intake manifold as a unit, cause it's a bear getting them apart if antiseize wasn't used in their previous assembly. If the exhaust system doesn't have any play in it, you may experience difficulty separating the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold on a high mileage engine. If you break a stud/bolt here, kits are available to heli-coil the manifolds and replace the bolts/studs. Antiseize everything when you put it back together, so it won't be so much fun next time.

 

If you have the receipt, you bought the carb recently, and the carb is defective, of course they will take it back.

That pipe only carries heated air - no exhaust gas. You can get a kit to replace the choke stove in the HELP section of your FLAPS.

the AMC inline 6s often have problems with leaky manifolds. From the factory, there was no gasket on the exhaust, but usually one is fitted later.

It's a pretty big job - You must remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as a unit to replace the gasket. If the exhaust has been leaking a long time, it will erode the exhaust manifold seal, and even with a gasket it will never seal. If the exhaust manifold surface is not smooth, you'll need a new exhaust manifold, or you'll have to have the manifold surfaced. Be sure to follow the proper tightening sequence and torque to proper tightness when reinstalling - you must use a torque wrench.

 

thanks to all. I will take a look tonight and see if I dare do it or maybe, from other thread, just put one in that doesnt leak oil and exhaust.

 

That motor would be quite happy to run on AC also. That's probably why they are called Universal Motors.

Even if you did get it to run backwards the bendex would not move the gear out to engage the flywheel.