blown 258

My jeep had been starting hard for a few days. The points set was old, so I gave it credit...once it started it was fine, and would start again instantly if it didn't rest for more then hours.
I went out there and it finally wouldn't start. I changed the points set expecting it to start instantly, but it still wouldn't start. Oil was fine. I looked under the cap and the point set gap was way too big, so I reset it...wouldn't start, point set gap too big, reset it, wouldn't start, point set gap to big, reset it, etc. I reallized once i set the points, the plate attached to the vaccum advance could be moved by hand, making the points set gap way too big. I found this a little odd...don't know if it has anything to do with it or not...
Suddenly my engine started turning real funny. It was like half the rotation was free, and the second half would seize up, over and over, making a real funny chunk, chunk, chunk...
It wasn't a dead battery, something was obviously seizing up. The first half of the revolution was strong. It will even start, but run really odd with no power. A ton of white smoke comes out of the tail pipe, but my friend claims it was blue. To me it sounds like the timing is off or the engine's blown. Sounds like when my friend threw his connecting rod, but not as intense. So I checked my plugs to make sure none where smashed like my friends were. they were fine. Then I noticed I instantly had lost 1/2 to 3/4qt. of oil, and it wasn't on the ground. The next day, the half quart was still clearly gone, and my oil was definitly full before I changed my points set. It drove fine the night before, and i think the problem occured right around when I changed my points set, while trying to start the engine. I'm clueless, and ideas? I'll let you know if I find anything else. I have a 232 sitting in my back yard, so I am not that worried, but I don't know what to do next. Thanks in advance.

 

It sounds to me like your not getting the points right on top of the lobe when your setting them. Have you had a dwell meter on it? If your timing was advanced too much it would crank like that. But neither would account for the oil loss or smoke. White smoke would be head gasket.

What did the plugs look like when they came out? I would think if it wasn't starting they would be wet? Bubbles? or did they just smell gassy?

Even if you dropped rings in one cylinder I would still think it would run although not well and low on power. If it is was a broken rod or something like that it would sound like someone was hitting the side of the block with a hammer.

I am guessing you have something broken in your distributor that is allowing it to go whacko on your timing. Or possibly it is just an adjustment.

 

First reaction (guess): could be cracked block or jumped timing. Any oil in the antifreeze? White, milky crud on the botttom of the oil fill cap? Points still opening up at or near Top Dead Center?

 

I think your right, this may be ignition related. The oil seemed to go back to a somewhat reasonable level. The points are all over the place though. I'll set them at .017, then I'll open it up, and they will be so wide that they don't even close. I'm pretty good with setting my points and I am sure they are at the top of the cam when I do it. The problem is that the plate the vaccum advance connects directly to is insanley loose. You can wobble it and watch the points open way more then they should. Could it be the pin in the vaccum advance linkage? Its really loose, seems like there should be a nut on the other side, though it dosn't appear to be threaded. Although for all I know its probably suppose to be like that. Seems like if I drilled outthe pin and replaced it with a small nut and bolt and possibly some kind of bushing, it would solve all my problems. Currently the plate under the distributer cap rocks back and forth affecting the point adjustment. I hope thats all it is, I would hate to say I blew a Straight 6.

 

to bad i just threw away my old points dizzy. Id swap in a hei, if your stock distributor is no good. I see no point in replacing it with a another points dizzy there is much better things available. Id did my swap for less than a reman distributor would be.

 

I agree with 73cj.....find a good deal on a HEI and get rid of the point set-up. Vastly superior cranking and overall driveability. If you do have a serious engine problem, the HEI could also be used on your 232........

 

been a long long time since I looked at a points set up. Don't the plates screw on?

 

Well the plate that the points setscrews to is supported soley by the vaccum advance. I was a huge supporter of points because it was reliable and when it broke I could fix it right there in 10 min. unlike my friends who sometimes have to camp out because they couldn't get their non points set ignition working. Well that blew up in my face. I am going to try to drill out a stud, replace it with a nut and bolt to make it more solid, and if that dosn't work, hei. I'll let you know how it went. thanks guys

 

I've always felt the same way about point-type ignitions--easy to troubleshoot, easy to fix. And my 73 Commando went over 300K miles between its three owners without the pivot stud on the fixed plate breaking. But I can see now that you'd have to carry a spare breaker plate assembly to cover all the possible breakdown scenarios with this particular model (1972-1974) distributor. Sure makes an HEI conversion look more attractive. Anyway. my nearest FLAPS (Autozone) carries a reman distributor for a 72-74 CJ5 @ $47 including the core charge. If time is any consideration, you may want to go that route. Good luck.

 

Alright, somethings bad. Got the ignition system working, it's running like crap though, stuttering alot at idle. I've got drops of oil coming out of the exhaust pipe. Does this mean theres a bad ring/cracked piston? Time for the 232?

I got the distributor issues resolved. I think it was the angle that the points set was in relation to the cam. I remebered last time when i was adjusting points, the points set was almost right against the condensor and this time there was like 1/4 inch. So I loosened the screw, spun the set a little, and reset it. Now its fine. 31 degrees dwell. If there wern't drops of oil coming from the tail pipe, I would have gone back in to get 32.

 

Could it be a bad head gasket allowing oil to get into my exhaust?

 

There is one oil passage up fom the block through the head and numerous drainback holes in the head, so I would assume that it is possible for a blown head gasket to result in increased oil consumption.

 

I only noticed drain back holes the oil comes up the hollow pushrods on mine.

have you done a compression check? is there oil in every cylinder?

 

The 1974 FSM shows one passage coming up to the rocker shaft--it provides lubrication to the rocker shaft and the rockers. The Haynes manual indicates that rocker shafts are used only on 1972 and 1974 Models. Pushrod oiling is employed on all other models.

 

A friend of mine today thought it was water and not oil. There is some smoke that blows out the exhaust, tho not enough to tell if it white or black. I think its white. Tho a friend blew a head gasket today and he was pouring out white smoke whereas I was just barley spitting it. There is a definite spot, when the starter turns the engine, that seems like it siezes or clunks. Once it starts it won't idle very low without stalling. I'm kinda frustrated becuase I am a radiator and steering box mount away from driving my m38a1. Then my daily driver/cj5 bites the dust.

The easiest thing to do is drop in the 232, but if its a head gasket, I'll probably change it instead. Even tho a head gasket would be harder, my engine had 155-165psi in every cylinder shortly before this hapened.


Next is another compression test with the 258...but that m38a1 is so close. And the dauntless is purring like a billy goat.

 

anything on the plugs? IE: coolant / oil