transmission replacement project

I made some nice progress over the weekend on the project. Hopefully the clutch will arrive today and I can begin to finish this up. I plan on taking pictures of everything this evening to share with all of you that have been so helpfull.

I do have yet another question, I got the d18 all assembled over the weekend with the help of the quide posted on this site. Everything went well, the shafts turn easily, shifts niceley etc.

I assembled my shim pack and got end play within specs, then took everything apart and put sealer on the shim pack and reassembled. After tightening the bolts to 35lb. I have 5 thousands of end play when I pryed on the gear like the instructions suggest. I then went to put on the brake drum and rechecked the end play and I getting basically zero play all of the sudden, yet everything turns easisly and doesnt appear to be binding. Any thoughts or Ideas?

 

Shouldn't bind. Does the drum touch the backing plate?

I'd guess something was left out (either by you or a previous).

 

Its weird, nothing binds. Everything spins easily. I had 5 thousands end play then after mounting the brake assembly, little or non?

 

Once you put the yokes on, the seals will drag on the yokes which could seem like it has no end play. I presume the manual says to adjust without the yokes on? IF it still spins freely, I'd think it's ok.

 

It sounds like after everything is said and done you should have .004 to .008 endplay. Its weird how I had .005 then nothing. Should I add more shims, or run it and see if it loosens up? It spins freely and shifts easily.

 

Just thinking out loud. You had 5 thou then added sealer on the shim pack. Wouldn't the shim pack be thicker now with the sealer? Thereby reducing the end play?

 

Should actually increase end play. The thicker the shim, the more the outer cup moves away from the bearing, the thinner the shim, the more the cup is pushed into the bearing.
Nickmil

 

Thats what I was thinking and I had the 5 after I had sealed the shims and tightened the bolts to 35 pounds. The only thing that I can think of is when I added the brake drum it shifted everything to far forward and it stuck?

 

When you had the .005" did you at any point put on the yoke and torque the nut when checking endplay? I've found this will shift things around and change the endplay readings, it's really the only true accurate way to check it as you want everything in "running formation" when checking endplay. The drum doesn't have to be on, just the yoke with the nut torqued. The first one I did drove me nuts trying to get it right until I figured out this was going on..... Nickmil

 

I did put the yoke on and torgued it down (along w/drum) after I did this I didnt have any end play. Did you go back in and add shims to resolve yours?

 

Yup. Had to re-shim the pack to get proper endplay. I now check everything without the drum and without the sealer then go back and seal the shims and install the drum. Saves headaches. I've also found that by using RTV Ultra black it doesn't hardly change the preload on the bearings. I guess enough squishes out to not make a lot of difference. It can affect it though. Nickmil

 

Thats what I figured. I used that gooey high tack stuff, what a mess. I'll go back clean it all out and start over. My shim pack seems much thicker than the original. Thanks for your help, I'll keep you posted.

 

:iagree:

Hopefully you haven't gone too far with the clutch on this yet.
When I replaced the flywheel in a rebuilt Chevy, I had to get special "flywheel" bolts at my FLAPS.
If I remember correctly, the flywheel bolts have a short/thin head. I'm wondering if that is what caused your bolt heads to look like they are rubbing on the clutch springs.... wrong bolts?
I would buy new bolts (my two cents).
Lee

 

I havent gotten to it yet. I did buy some grade 8 regular bolts. I'll call the FLAPS and see if they have special flywheel bolts instead, with smaller heads. Do you remember if your bolts had the collar that was talked about in this thread?

 

Not sure what you mean......Like the bolt shoulder? Yes, they had a shoulder (no threads where the went thru the flywheel).

If your FLAPS doesn't have any, ARP bolts should be able to help.

I searched the web, but could only find bolts for the AMC V8.
http://www.performanceamstyle.com/C...sid=af78a6628e5417e8d69c275bb31a29f4&divi=amc

I would be worried about using grade 8 bolts.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong....but I thought that grade 8's are hard, but they are brittle, not tough.
Lee

 

Found some. Gee, they are grade 8.... guess I was wrong.
http://www.taperformance.com/boltkits.htm

Lee