more wiring help

Ok I have a 1974 CJ5 with a 304 and I am trying to rewire it. I have all the lights figured out I thank but now I am working on the engine part of the harness now and I need to know what alternator and distributor etc to use to make it easier because the the PO removed the alternator and voltage regulator etc and all that is left is a ford solenoid the coil and distributor but I amm unsure if it is original.

 

if it were me, i would just put a 1 wire alt in with an hei dist, but i am very unfirmiliar with the 304, but i would think that that would be the easiest route if you are looking for new stuff.... the hei will do away with your coil, and the 1 wire alt is just that, 1 power wire to the alt and you are good to go... just my .02

 

Would a 1 wire alternator have enough power for a radio

 

usualy 100 amp

 

Since this was a thread on engine bay wiring, I'll try and help, but I need some specifics...

Try here for a proper alternator wiring install,
http://www.JunkYardGenius.com/charging/IMAGES/SIaltwire01.gif
OR,
http://www.JunkYardGenius.com/charging/IMAGES/SIDiagram.gif
http://www.JunkYardGenius.com/charging/IMAGES/SIdiode01.gif

You should have a breaker point ignition, but some '74 models came with a Prestolite ignition, so I need to know which one you have to give you a diagram on that count.
Breaker points will have a metal vacuum advance canister on the distributor,
Prestolite will have a plastic vacuum advance canister.

 

In the mid year of '74 Jeep changed from breaker points distributor to Prestolite, so you may have either.
The quick way to tell is to see what the vacuum advance on the distributor is made out of, Metal (Delco breaker points) or plastic (Prestolite distributor).

The problem with the suggestion you switch to a GM style HEI is that distributor was never used in a Jeep vehicle, so there isn't a direct factory replacement for your V-8 engine.

Some of the I-6 engine guys got lucky and a Chevy I-6 distributor will fit, but there was never a GM V-8 distributor made that will swap over, so you will have to buy one from the after market... Costly and quality varies a serious amount.

If it's breaker points, you have a couple of options...
There are electronic conversion kits on the market, Pertronics, Accel, ect.
Try this link and have a look around...
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925143+4294839065+115+4294873053

You can also get an ignition module that will trigger off points...

Or, if you are industrious and want to do it for cheap,
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/jeep/cj502.html

You can also upgrade the distributor cap and rotor very easily, MSD makes a cap & rotor kit,
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD-8420&N=700+115&autoview=sku
-------------------

If you have a Prestolite, your options are limited...
Prestolite is sort of the 'Step Child' of electronic ignitions...
No upgrades available, and since it used a real hall effect trigger, you can't even use the distributor to trigger a reliable module.
(not to give you the idea the distributor is reliable, with a Full power Hall effect trigger and plastic vacuum advance, it's not)

1. Factory options.
You can use a Motorcraft distributor AMC used from '78 to '90 in all V-8 engines.
Since this distributor was used from the factory, they are available from the Remanufacturing market (discount parts stores), salvage yards, ect. they are everywhere.

Plug them into factory or after market modules (it will trigger all common factory and after market modules... Except Prestolite...

It's easily upgradeable with with off the shelf parts and there are write ups about the upgrades everywhere...
(there is an idea I should have sold instead of given away!)

2. After market distributors.
Expensive! $200 to $450 depending on maker.
A bunch are GM style HEI clones that come with a number of problems of their own.

Distributor gear placement can be a real problem with theses distributors!
I've seen oil pumps wiped out because the shaft was too long, and I've seen camshaft gears chewed up because the gear was misplaced, too high or too low.

Currently, there are some hardened distributor gear in the after market that are chewing stock soft cam drive gears up something terrible.

 

i have a 220 amp 1 wire from poermasters.... you can get them in various amp ratings, nd like boyink said radios take very very little power, if you giot a 100a 1 wire, you could power several sets of aux lights, radio, cb, and still have plenty of power left... just my .02

 

Thanks for the help I will figure out what distributor I have and I also have 2 alternator but I will have to check them and see if what they are and if yall can help me figure out which one of those I could use I might just go with one of them.

 

The distributor has the metal vacuum advance and I have Delco Remy alternator.So this is the right wiring diagram for it right?http://www.junkyardgenius.com/charging/IMAGES/SIaltwire01.gif

 

I would say you are good to go with the diagram you picked out.
If you need help, let me know and I'll answer any questions you may have.

 

Alright thanks man

 

Is there a special mounting bracket I need for the delco alternator? I took the old I believe motorola alternator off but couldnt get the delco to fit on the brackets.Also should there be a a plug on my distributor for 2 wires going to electronic control unit? The wiring diagram I have shows the 1974 having a 2 wire connector from the control unit to the distributor but I can not find a plug on the distributor any where?

 

If you have a '1 wire' then all you need is a heavy wire on the back.

If you have a regular Delco, then you have the correct diagram.