No Spark after rewire

OK so this is my first big job so I assumed that I would have some issues but this has me stumped. I just finished a rewire using the Painless wiring kit and everything seems to work other that I have no spark at the spark pluggs. I have checked for spark at the coil and it is fine there but I get nothing out of the distributor. any direction on where to look for a problem would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

i would check the distributor for the problem.. double check wires to distributor.. cap and rotor
maybe points are not gaped right if you are running points..

 

Could the problem be with the ignition control module??? That is the only part the I am only partially sure that I have wired right.

 

yes it could be.. do you have a extra or know someone you can borrow one from .. that would be the best way to determine without buying a new one..

 

No I dont have a way to get a spare but I do have a little more information that might help. Voltage at the coil when the key is on is 11.79 volts. when I try to start her up the volts drop to 0.

 

i would say it has to be a lose connection somewhere ..

if its a fiberglass tub make sure you have good grounds to everything..
i have seen people put fiberglass tubs on and forget that everything needs ground wires..

what motor is in you jeep ?

if nothing else get a wire with alligator clips on both ends ...

unhook pos + wire from coil and tape it up so it wont touch metal..

hook one alligator clip to pos + on coil and other to pos + on Batt .. basically hot wiring it ....... then try to start it..
if it starts you will have to unhook alligator clip from batt. to shut it off
so may want to have a second person near by to help you ..


shame your not near NE Ohio ..i would get it running for ya.. so much easier to diagnose when the jeep is in front of ya...

 

Yea I sure I wish I lived back in Ohio, I grew up in Canton but move out here to Wyoming when I was in elementary school and have been here ever since.

I tried you recomendations and still nothing. 0 volts at the top of the coil when cranking.

 

Oh and it is the original 304 engine and was running fine before I started the wiring project.

 

The painless kit may not have included the wire that goes from the 'I' terminal on the starter solinoid to the + on the coil. This gives you 12v while cranking. You also should only have 7-8 volts at the coil with the ignition on. Probably need a ballast resistor.

 

My solinoid does not have a "I" terminal only a "S". I will test the voltage again tonight when I get home just to be sure. Just to be sure that I am checking it right I should be checking the coil wire that goes to the top of the distributor and it should be 7-8 volts when the key is on and 12 while cranking right???

 

OK I just checked and I have 12 Volts with the key on and approx 7 while starting.... I will install a ballast tonight.

 

Can you post a few pictures of the wiring? Such as your solenoid (make sure you're focusing on the terminals so we can see the 'I', 'S', etc.), the coil, distro, etc.
There's enough folks here that have done wiring, that if they actually see your pictures, they may have your answer for you.

 

If you have 12v with the key in the run position that would indicate that you do not have a resistor in the line or it is not wired correctly. The wire form the solonoid "I" term will only supply 12v to the coil as stated when cranking. Normal voltage is in the 9v range through the resistor at the coil. Was originally there to protect the points from burning.

 

Here are sont pics from under the hood. I have temporary splices in some places for troubleshooting. I did take the Ignition control module to the local auto store and it was failed so this may be the problem I just dont know how putting new wiring in would kill it if it was working before I did any wiring.