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Tub - Remove or not to remove

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by fatty, Apr 10, 2007.

  1. Apr 10, 2007
    fatty

    fatty New Member

    Papillion, NE
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2002
    Messages:
    32
    I have a big sheet metal job starting next week. I'll be replacing my front and rear floor panels w/ supports, rear floor riser, and rear wheelhouses. Should I remove my tub? Or, should I leave it on to line up body mounting holes? Also, where do you think I should start? I've never done this before so any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Apr 10, 2007
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    For that work I'd pull the tub. It's been borderline for the smaller -patching and welding I've been doing on SSDutch and that work isn't nearly as involved as what you're doing.
     
  3. Apr 10, 2007
    Huntman

    Huntman HIGH ROLLER

    Apex, NC
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2007
    Messages:
    271
    i would remove it for sure, it would be easier that way. just take some measurements on the mounting holes, thats the way i did it and i had no problem. i did front pans first and worked my way back and it seemed to work good for me.
     
  4. Apr 10, 2007
    mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    Charlottesville Va
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Messages:
    2,706
    Pull it
     
  5. Apr 10, 2007
    stalin440

    stalin440 member

    Elmira, NY
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2007
    Messages:
    89
    my theory would be to pull the tub, start with 1 floorpanel at a time. save your old panels so its easy to measure the new holes to drill. careful not to warp anything. thats my 2 cents. good luck
     
  6. Apr 10, 2007
    jeepguy616

    jeepguy616 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2005
    Messages:
    14
    knowing what I know now I would pull the body off. A couple years ago I replaced my floors in my 5. I had rotted thru floors and left the body on and cut out the front floors first and built up the framework and body mount areas. Then I layed in and cut out my own floors as the steel was free from work. Then as I started into it I finished the front and then went ahead and did the rear floor. It was alot of work but I made the mounts where they needed to be so everything worked out ok. But if I had to do it again I would pull it as welding upside down is not very fun.
     
  7. Apr 10, 2007
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    :shock:

    Sheeshe...there's a voice from the past...
     
  8. Apr 10, 2007
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2002
    Messages:
    2,362
    :iagree: I did this with my M38a1.
     
  9. Apr 10, 2007
    CJ-X

    CJ-X Member

    Ohio
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2006
    Messages:
    816
    It may seem like more work, but it won't be in the long run. If you need to set it back on temporarily for a measurement, you always can.
     
  10. Apr 10, 2007
    windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    PA
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2006
    Messages:
    1,502
    Pull it, Its much easier in the long run for the patching as well as painting/undercoating etc. If your lucky like me the tub will only have one bolt holding it on thats not rusted through.R)
     
  11. Apr 10, 2007
    1969 CJ-5

    1969 CJ-5 AZ Native

    Whiteman AFB Misouri
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Messages:
    154
    Pull it!
     
  12. Apr 11, 2007
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    One of our creative members solved that problem by making a turnover/rotisserie for his tub, using an old ECJ5 frame to mount the tub... so the tub mounts stay in location... See the post by Wheelie in the fabricators forum.
     
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