Replacing front hub and studs

I had to replace one of the front hubs on my jeep. I took it to a local machine shop and had them press the old hub from the drum. My question is will I have to take it back and have it pressed back in or when I tighten the lug bolts will that pull it in? Also, when installing the new studs do I have those pressed into the hub or just put some washers on them and tighten the lugs to pull them in. Just want to make sure I do it right and not mess anything up.

 

10" brakes, right?
The studs on the hub have a slight flare on them where the ribs (that had held on the brake drum) turn to threads. That's why the drums had to pressed off of the hub by a shop. It'll be a royal pain to get the studs out of the hub with the flare in place, trust me. What I did was use a dremel tool to carefully grind the flare off the stud. With the flare gone, I hammered out the stud and replaced them with new studs. You should be able to hammer those in yourself (carefully!) from the back side of the hub. Use a bench vise with wood in the jaws so as to not mangle anything. With the new studs, the drum was able to slide on over the studs without being pressed in place like stock...real handy when it comes time to adjust something or overhaul something. An alternative is to drill the holes in the drum for the studs slightly bigger so they will clear the flare on the stock studs.

Hope this helps! Keep us posted.

 

They were upgraded to 11" drums. Would this method work with them also?

 

I'd install the later studs that don't need to be swaged
say 1972 thru 1975
the drum would be sandwiched between the hub and the wheel
then you could just pull the drum off without having to pull the hub as well
ymmv

 

If the hubs from the 10" units were re-used when the 11" units were put on, then yes, because the studs would still have a flare on them. Like the above post states, studs from a 72-75 would be best.

Take a look in the picture and notice the two closest studs. The one on the left is a stock '68 and has a flare on it between the hub flange and the stud threads. The stud on the right is a newer (~'72 or so) stud that's got no flare and the threads go all the way to the hub flange.

 

The studs that Quadratec sent me had no flare on them. The threads go down to the head on the stud. Also, the diameter of the studs is smaller than the holes on the hub. What would keep the studs from turning when I loosen the lugs? On the old hub it had the studs with the flare and were spot welded where the head and the hub meet. Is this something that I'm going to have to do also?

 

hmmm...something doesn't sound quite right about your new studs. If we're on the same page, and I think we are, the studs should look like the one in the picture (attached). The ribs at the base of the stud (the ones running parallel to the stud) hold the stud in place, preventing it from spinning or falling out (they get pressed in to the hub). The pictured stud has no flare and should mate into the existing holes in the hub with some force (nothing major, but definately no welding required). I think maybe someone (previous owner?) may have had issues with your studs and welded them in...welded studs are not stock.

How about taking some measurements of your old and new studs to compare. The pictured stud was from a stock '72 11" brake set-up that used for my swap. The stud is a 1/2" diameter, 20 threads per inch, 1 3/4" long (which is only a hair longer then the stock '68). The ribs are 5/8" diameter, and the head is 3/4" diameter.

-Thomas

 

Just had another thought. Some one help out with this one:
Newer Jeeps run a 5 on 4.5" bolt circle and use 7/16" studs, don't they??? Maybe Quadratech shipped the wrong studs.

 

I'm just going to go to the local part store and get some different studs because what Quadratec sent was
wrong.Here is a pic of the stud. Thanks for the help.
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