Oil

What type of oil should I use in my 57 M38A1?

 

Ummm lynnn I think he has the drop in filter like the fram C3P

 

That was my next question, is there an aftermarket filter that I can get from my FLAPS or do I have to go to one of the websites to order it? Also, is there a conversion kit that I can get to use a standard screw on filter?

 

Really? My dad has always sworn by quakerstate and kendal oil and fram filters, though he's an old timer. Thats what I have been using since the day I started changin oil.. I guess I'll change to castrol? Any good oil filters that have that rubber grip on them like Fram?

 

I've seen a 350 V-8 go 400,000 miles on Pennzoil and that basic cheap filter from Fram. R)

 

The jist on the fram filters was that an independant study http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html showed that the fram filter had less surface area than most comparable filters but it also used teflon beads in alot of its filter and thats a big no no according to dupont who makes and markets teflon.
Here is the 2nd part to the above page:http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

 

Been a lot of discussion on the IFSJA boards about Fram filters and how they can result in low oil pressure. In many cases, substituting a Wix for Fram on an AMC 360 with very low hot idle oil pressure brings the hot idle pressure up by maybe 10psi, to an acceptable level.

Re the drop-in filter, there's nothing wrong with the design except that it makes a mess when you change it.

 

Yes its an F-Head.

 

Filters:
I have seen cutaways of the Frams vs. others. The Fram has a cardboard separator at the end of the filter. Wix, (NAPA) others use metal. there is no problem, until the cardboard fails, probably rare, but do you want to risk it?
In your application, this discussion is moot. Your FLAPS should have the orig. type drop in cartridge. The one in Dad's 55 was near impossible to get the lid off of the first time, and had plenty of gunk in the bottom of the can, but should be better with regular changes.

Oil:
I am a fan of 15W40 Rotella Shell. It may lead to slightly harder starting in coldest weather, and some mileage loss, but i accept mileage loss for engine life.

 

Where do you buy the Rotella oil? The Shell web site only shows distributors and truck stops.

 

The Shell site says it can be used in gasoline engines. I recall something about modern oils being inadequate for flat-tappet gasoline engines because of the loss of zinc (?) additives. Something about the zinc clogging the 02 sensor... or other emissions questions, like clogging the convertor? The diesel oils are said to be better for flat tappet engines because of the different additives - Shell even shows reduced contact wear on its site, targeted at something like flat tappets.

 

I've used Havoline almost exclusively since I started changing oil. There wasn't anything scientific about my choice...it's just what my dad used (and probably his dad, and his dad...) I've never had any kind of oil related problems in any of my rigs. I used Fram for years too, no problems. I buy Wix when I can now. Honestly, I think the frequency of your oil changes has more to do with it than either the brand of oil or filter. The wifes Subaru is up over 360,000 miles (we're the second owner) and when I had the oil pan off, it was surprisingly free of any goo. We got it from the original owner who was very "particular" about his maintenance.

I've heard the Pennzoil rumor for years. I remember a guy telling me it was made from paraffin, and it would break down after a little while. . If a quart of oil has the API seal on it, it should be fine. In real world use, there probably isn't much difference between any of them. Most people don't own a vehicle long enough to find out what (if any) effects oil might have.

 

Virtually all of the name brand convention oils are paraffin based. The sludging was caused years ago from people running to low of thermostat or not running one at all. The engines cooled when shut down faster than the oil could drain back to the pan causing the waxy sludge buildup.

 

I'll be darned...learn something new every day. I just did a little reading over at Quaker State, and sure enough...

"There are two basic types of crude oil, naphthenic and paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its lubricating properties and resistance to oxidation (sludge forming tendencies). In the refining process, the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many different products. One of the products is wax, and others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils, asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil marketer uses paraffinic base stocks in blending its engine oil products."

 

I'll second the Shell Rotella 15W40(although I use mobil Delvac 15W40, they are similar). This is what was recommended to me to run in my old farmall, so I also run it in my F-head. A F-head isn't all that far from a tractor engine is it?

Edit:
Wal-mart usually has it here.

 

Walmart, huh? Sounds like the place for me. Looks like I'll be picking up some Rotella next time. Why don't you guys use 10W30? Cause its an F-head?

 

I still might have NOS shell oil here, but lately we've been getting in Phillips 76 oil... that's what's in mine now

For me, on this application, clean fresh oil is the key.