Outboarding springs

Ok guys im new to this and need lots of info, Here is what i have a 72 cj5 with a 304 with 360 heads and a tork cam everything else is stock execpt for the borg steering, Ibought 37 mt claws to go on it. i also have a 3in body lift, I want to go with the wider axle will the axles on a 3/4 ton chevy work or do i need 60s, second i need to outboard my springs how do i do this, I thought if i bought this truck the 3/4 ton i could use the tranny and tranfer case to if that will work i dont know that either. Is there a detail site on here or some where else to tell me more how to set this up.
Or should i pray to the 4wheel drive God. lol
Thanks oh i also have a friend that has a 70s cherokee with 44s will they work with 37s

 

As long as you do not have a front locker, the 44 isn't bad. If you want a front locker and 37's, go with a 60 front.

 

Here's a thread with pictures on another board of outboard'd springs. (search on this board yielded no results)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111771

p.s. he's NOT the world's best welder, but you'll get the idea easy from his pics.

Here's another set of pictures when this guy changed to d44 and outboard springs. (he's a better welder, too)

http://www.angelfire.com/wi/mikeswwwsite/soa/axles3.html

Ken

 

Umm, am I missing something? I don't see the thread link...:?

 

Yep, to some extent. First off, if you start out with the 44 front, and you break axles, replace them with chromoly, because I have seen alot of those hold up well. If it wasn't for the weight of the V8 I would say you would be ok since you only have 37's on it, but I have seen a ton of rigs with V8's that can pretty much destroy a 44 front on demand, but the chromo will help out until you can find a 60 front. FYI, if you don't already know, 44 fronts can be had for $heap, but around here a 60 front is around $1200, so you will probably want to try to make that 44 last as long as you can.

 

Are you planning on taking it on the road any? I would recommend either the waggy rear or I am guessing a 14 bolt rear? I would put the Cab and Chassis hubs on the 14 bolt to get it down to 63" wms. Then run the waggy front with the 3/4 ton outers on it which will make it roughly 63" wms also. Just my .02 becuase I do have a full width jeep.

Adam

 

I have a friend that has a 70s cherokee with 44s how do i mod. the 3/4 ton outers on it or will they bolt right up. and im not going to run a locker on the front not now anyways. thank for all the info

 

First of all get rid of the three inch body lift. Then go to pirate 4x4 and buy a red star for $20 and DO NOT POST but search search search. When you think you are done...keep right on reading. About the time you hit 60 hours of reading you can then go and get a front 60 and a rear 60 or 14 bolt, and keep reading. There are so many issues you have yet to learn about. The 60 in the long run will be cheaper, than a 44. By the time you buy custom axles and after blowing up a few things, you will be ahead with the 60. Of course you can run a 44 just plan on a high pinion for strength. Custom axles at $500 and custom u-joints at $300, and as you can see it starts adding up fast, and is still not as strong as a stock 60.

Don't forget your frame will not handle it, and a proper roll cage is also in order.

Why outboard? Link it! :twisted:

There comes a point it is cheaper to buy a built rig, than it is to piece meal it together. Ever wonder why guys part their rigs out instead of selling them whole?

 

If you are not going to be locking the front, the 44 will be fine to get you by. As you get further and further into offroading, you will eventually decide you need to lock the front, so it would be a good idea to stick a few dollars back every week or so, and by the time you get ready to get into more serious rocks, you will have the $$ saved up for a 60 front. The strength of the frame is an issue if it isn't boxed, so you should strengthen it some when you are outboarding it, but other than that all you gotta do is get the axle where you want it and build the frame to fit it. If you are going to go too far into it, you can get a Wrangler frame and save some time boxing and outboarding. As far as linking the front, in my opinion I wouldn't go to the trouble. Heck, even when it's time for my TJ to be trail built, I will only keep the four link in the rear and go leaf springs in the front. All the guys I ride with that are linked in the front have to hook the winch up to the front to suck the springs down when they are climbing anything steep, and most end up just leavin it that way, so their high dollar coilover shocks are basically useless as far as the front goes.

Basically, it's simple to outboard the springs and add the 3/4 ton stuff, especially if you aren't locking the front. You can take it as far as you are wanting to go with it, but for what you descrive I would say the 3/4 ton axles and outboarding would be the cheapeast and simplest way of doing it.

Just my .02

Oh, almost forgot, I do agree with ditching the body lift unless you are going to need body clearance to raise the engine up or something like that. Of course that my just be me, but I like to keep the COG low on a trail rig.

 

mocj5 welcome and please fill in your info to let us know what area you are in, you may have a member around the corner.
I agree with what everyone has posted here but you need to address how your jeep is going to be used. Are you going heavy rock crawling or deep mud bogging? Then you need Dana 60 axles. Are you going to do some street/mild trail riding with some rocks/mud thrown in occasionally, then the D44 will work. How often are you going to use the Jeep? Just my $.02

 

If the 3/4 ton is the small bearing spindles you can just change the hub/rotor if it is the big bearing you have to change the spindle also. I agree on saving money up and buy some alloy front shafts. If you are planning alot of horsepower and rock crawling skip the alloys and save for a 60.

Adam

 

That is why ALL the serious comp rigs run them? There is no way I am going back to leafs. I broke almost enough to buy coilovers in the first place. Plus they can adjust how much their front end unloades from in the drivers seat with the winch

Me too, that is what the reciprocating saw is for R)

 

Forget outboarding and go with a Dana 60 front and rear. You'll have to have them narrowed but in the long run the setup will be bulletproof. I started narrowing a 44 front for my jeep a few months ago, by the time I priced up custom shafts it wasn't worth it. A picked up a Dana 60 HP front and threw the 44 in the trash.

Extreem.

 

Well first of all thanks for all the info. Im going to use the jeep alittle on the road but not much rock climbing some in the mud holes but mainly just trail riding. I have another jeep im going to build just off roading and a scout frame. Im retired and only 42 so i have plenty of time and a nice shop to work in. I will fill out my info but i live in memphis, missouri