Body Lift

Am doing a frame up restoration on 52 M38. I know I have read using hockey pucks for lift but I know there was more detail that told what size to drill hole and believe it suggested using sleeves. Also what is suggested for lowering trans x member 1 inch also as 1 puck would not cover both holes and I would think it should be one piece?

 

The holes in the pucks need to be the same size as the bolts going through them. I'm guessing 7/16" or 1/2". I don't think a sleeve is necessary, since it would be pretty hard to crush a hocky puck.

As for the crossmember, on my CJ5, there was about 3 pieces of plate steel between the frame and xmember. Those added up to about 1". You could also use threaded steel pipe caps (just have to drill a hole in them) for spacers. These can be had at any Lowes or Home Depot.

 

keep in mind when you do the BL it will throw the holes where your pedals go through out of whack and you will have to drill/cut new ones. Just mentioning it since you said it was a restoration.

 

the tub is fairly easy
the problem can be where the lower front fender braces bolt to the frame and the grille mounts.
I suppose something could be fabbed up to overcome those obstacles.

 

If you're doing a restoration, why do you want to body lift it?

 

X2...With an M38 restoration I would want to keep it as close to stock as I could, or use some lift springs.

 

You cant do a body lift with an m38 unless you get rid of the grill hinges. I would not do one if the rest is stock

 

Have had this jeep since 1972 myself. In late 70"s I took it down, sanblased frame, rebuilt transmission, move transmission x member over 1 1/4 inch and raised body at that time using shock bushings, and installed 67 283. Drove locally on the road for a few years and plowed driveway. Am now retired and want to do it again. Have already por 15 frame, had springs sandblasted, am rebuilding engine, and plan on installing saginaw steering, dual master cylinder, hydaulic clutch, disc brakes and at this point plan on getting master kits from Novak to rebuild t90 and d18. Novak recommends raising body 1 inch, lowering trans. x member 1 inch (which I did not do in 70's) and moving x member 1 1/4 inch. This is not an original restoration but am trying to make it more of a road worthy vehicle. New to site as of today and am looking forward to sharing progress and getting info as I go along Thanks, appreciate comments and suggestions!!

 

Since you are in Windham I would love to come see your jeep sometime. My m38 is going back bone stock, and getting there very slowly.

 

You shouldn't have to lift the body and lower the tcase if you are using the stock tranny/tcase. My dad and I both have M38s, I lowered the xmember on mine because the T18 tranny was larger than the 90 and hit the floor. My dad had the 90 in his for years with a 327chevy and didn't lift or lower anything. We just rebuilt it after a rollover and changed to an SM420 tranny, which we had to lift the body to clear, but not both. We used aluminum pucks the same size as the CJ5 rubber body pucks we had. To lift the grill we spaced the tilt brackets off the frame with channel iron. We built custom tube fenders to replace the originals so we were able to make the mount long enough to reach the frame. I can email you some pictures if you like. I also have some parts I want to sell, like mustang disc brakes for the rear (Novak conversion from the 70's).

Goose

 

Installed 283 in the 70's and was told to raise body 1" for engine clearance and distributor being tight to firewall. Move transmission x member 1 1/4" to get clearance between bell housing and brake pedal arm. Did not lower transmission x member at that time and ran into problems with front drive shaft being too close to bell housing. Did buy some adpater plates for disk brakes from jimmorock.com in Canada and he says to use calipers, guide pins and pads from Chev Caprice 78-93 and rotors from a 93-98 Grand Cherokee. Would take you up on your off of pictures if you don't mind and if you think I am getting bad info please let me know.

 

Live off route 28 on Windham, Derry line (off 93 exit 3). Not much to see at this time as the frame is in the garage along with the engine and body is in the basement . Would also like to see your project. Contact me at dondi415@adelphia.net.