134 External Oil Lines

I recently had the 134 rebuilt in my 59 CJ5. There were two oil lines connected to the block near the rear of the engine on the driver's side. The top one feeds the head, and the bottom one feeds the idiot light and oil pressure gauge. I have cracked the bottom one twice now. The first time I wrote it off to stupidity, spending $1200 for a new engine and not replacing a 40+ year old $1 brass fitting.

I replaced the fitting with a short piece of brass pipe to avoid conflicts with the uppper oil line. On a 4wd trail over the weekend, I cracked this new pipe while negotiating a rough piece of trail where the front axle was bouncing in the air a bit. I'm not exactly sure how it broke (I did replace the motor mounts!), but it got me thinking I should find out how those two lines are suppose to be routed and what they are made of. Can anyone post a picture of how these two lines are suppose to be routed and what they are made of?

Thanks.

 

There should be a soft line(hose)between the engine and the body. If you don't have one, run a coil. Simply coil a length of hard line around your tubing bender drum. The coil will expand and contract with the movement of the engine, like a spring. You see these on GM master cylinders all the time. I do not recommend using the plastic line that comes with the gauge. They chafe, burn, crack, and otherwise fail. I have seen two catastrophic engine failures due to plastic pressure lines.

 

If anyone is interested. In refrigeration there are braided stainless 1/4"flare lines we use for pressure controls and such they would esily handle engine oil pressure and I have seen them on compressors that rock 1" or mor every time they start and stop, and have been on for 10 years at least with no problems, burst pressure is like 600 psi. not sure on cost tho. I could check if your interested.

 

BTDT when you turn the wheels all the way so the pitman arm comes all the way back towards the firewall it hits the fitting unless you use a street ell.to keep the fittings close to the block.

 

I like the stock set up. Mine has been hanging in there since 1964.

 

Tomcam was exactly right. When the wheel is turned all the way to the left the pitman arm swings up enough to hit the lower oil line. I had previously replaced a street elbow coming out of this lower hole with a short nipple. But not short enough!

Going back to a street elbow and a T fitting should allow me to keep both the idiot light and the oil gauge working while still clearing the steering.

I'm just thankful it only cracked and did not shear off. I was able to mostly coast the 3 miles back to the tow vehicle, but had to drive through the creek crossings (sorry Sierra Club).