Steering questions

Does anyone run a single tie rod with a Ross box?

Just curious if anyone is running a single tie rod from knuckle to knuckle, with a drag link from one end to the bellcrank. I need to change my tie rod ends, but am considering making some changes while I'm at it. I know most people will recommend doing a saginaw swap, but I want to stick with the Ross setup (call me crazy).

I run 2.5" lift springs and thought that using a single tie rod may help the steering geometry a little...keep both wheels pointing the same way, and help with bump steer. Everything works okay now...and that's with plenty of hard offroad use and a lot of on road use too...but I still would like to consider some minor improvements.

Also, has anyone flipped the tie rod to the top of the knuckle? If so, how did you do it...heim joints, drill/weld in insert? I've seen some kits, but am looking for input from someone who has used the set up.

 

I use a tie rod that goes from side to side. Used the tie rod end that has the end and hole in it for the right side, long rod from bellcrank to right side. and got a long rod at a FLAPS about 36" long.
This took care of the bump steer.
I was all new parts, no fab work,only shorten one rod.

 

These are good questions. I was interested in the tre flip also but there is a good bit of info on that already. I think my excess play comes fomr the bell crank anyway.

 

Thanks for the reply 1970CJ6. I think I'm going to do the same thing you did. I also still want to flip it all to the top of the Knuckles though, just have to figure out how I want to do that...

 

I did a quick search and heres some on the TRE flip

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34136&highlight=tie+rod+end+flip

 

Thanks! For some reason I didn't find that when searching...wrong key words I guess. thanks for posting that, it definitely helps.

 

It looks to me like the goferit version is the best but probably not the easiest.

 

i flipped the ends on all three of our rock jeeps to the top.... actually quite easy. all i did was get a reamer with the same taper. reap out the knuckles untill the end would sink down in..... re adjust and off i went....

 

I thought it sounded to easy. If that method is that easy I got to try it with some new TRE's

 

I would be quite concerned with only half thickness of mating surface on the TRE taper. I would watch them closely for wobble to start. They may last forever but......

JB

 

Always thought that the M38A1 used a single rod from side to side and only one from the bellcrank.