Name that carb!!

Ok. I don't know squat about carbs. All I know is this one on my 304 doesn't match any of the carbs listed in the service manual. It is a "Holley" because is says so on the side. Can anyone identify it from these pics and better yet, can anyone indicate which of the 30483 screws adjust the air / fuel mixture? I'm tired of smelling unburnt gas when I stop at lights and run the Jeep in my garage. Thanks again!!!

 

believe that is a holley 4160 from the secondary metering block.

There are two small slot headed screws (one on each side) on the front metering block...
the metering block is between the float bowl and the carb center body.

you can try there, but you could have other issues...
leaky power valve, float level too high, vacuum leak, etc....

you could also have a carb with 'too large' of an idle circuit....

these are not for the faint of heart....

oh.. btw... this is not a stock carb for this engine.

 

The part number will be located on the choke air horn.

 

Hi - no 304 Jeep came with a 4V carb, so you probably have the early 360 square pattern manifold. You sure it's a 304? If you look at the driver's side of the block, behind the motor mount, the displacement will be cast in big letters.

The 4160 is a fine street rod or muscle car carb, but not great for a Jeep. The center-pivot floats are good for corner-bending, but don't work well on steep up or down slopes. Also, with center pivot floats, I'd expect that it's a 600 CFM carb, which is too much for a streetable 304 IMO. They are popular carbs though - you should be able to sell it pretty easily if that's your decision.

You can only adjust the idle mixture externally. To adjust the high-speed circuit mixture, you have to take the bowl off and change the jets. Personally I think the Holleys are easy to tune compared to other carbs; if you read a book you can do it. http://www.amazon.com/Holly-Carb-Hp...=pd_bbs_2/103-8623575-9995022?ie=UTF8&s=books

Also there's lots of good tech info on the Holley site: http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp

 

What's a "choke air horn?" I thought they were stamped into the top of the carb body.

<edit> Much better with the picture!

 

Look on the front of the metal surrounding the choke flap. You should find the word "List" followed by a number. This is how Holley identifies their carburetors. Yours looks like what they call a "4150 Street HP Carburetor" or maybe even a "Street Avenger". Both are very tunable and popular. And expensive.

Edit: Not a "4150 Street HP Carburetor"--no choke or surrounding metal. Could also be a performance carb off of several Hi-Po factory engines. Check the list no. against Holley's online site.

John

 

That's a plain old 4150 vacuum secondary carb. The 4160's didn't get secondary metering blocks, they used a plate with fixed jets. The fact that it's a dual inlet identifies it as an early model, or a performance model, as all the late model and smog oriented versions were single inlet.

 

U sure that it is 4150?

most 4150's i have seen the float bowl mates to the center section, and you will not see the metering block....

this one I can see the block that the jets are located in....

 

First thing... Ditch that Carb! Sorry to those who like Holleys. I just got fed up with the 4160 that the PO put on mine. My Reasons for saying ditch it:

1. That's a bit much for a 304
2. It was great on Road when tuned, Sucked off road tuned or not.
3. Constantly catching crap on the Float needle and holding open and flooding. Yes It was clean and running 2 Filters and the screens in the carb
4. Constantly having to adjust it. Couldn't seem to hold a mixture setting for crap.
5. off camber or climbing a hill it would flood.

Only time I liked that carb was just after tunning and driving ont he road. TONS of Power. But after swapping back to the MC2100 I gained torque, but lost horse power... then again, after switching, I've only messed with the 2100 once to rebuild it.

Sell it to some HotRodder for a good price, go buy a 2100 froma Junkyard for $20, a rebuild Kit for $30 and pocket your profits! Then live happily ever after.

 

#2 and #5 are archtypical of the Holley street carbs on Jeeps, in my experience.

The 2100 is a 2V carb, so you'd have to change the manifold (or use an adapter plate) to use it.

<edit> Looking more closely at your pictures, you may have the stock 2V manifold with a 4V adapter. In that case you could remove the carb abd adapter and bolt on the OEM 2100 (a 2150 will work fine too).

 

U could be correct there.....

and the adapter could contribute to his problems....

 

You guys amaze me with your infinite knowledge of Jeepish type things! I will do the following this weekend:

1) get the numbers off the front flange on the carb
2) confirm the PO knew what he was talking about when he sold me a 304 (make sure it's not a 360)
3) confirm if there is in fact an adapter plate on the manifold.

I need to fix this. Everyone at work thinks I'm wearing a new cologne named 'stinky gas smell'.

 

I had that same issue wheni was running the Holley onmy 304 I can relate!

What I did was kept a bottle of Febreeze in the CJ. When I got to work, I sprayed myself with it and went on in the office R) Worked Great! I think the bottle is still in the CJ under the seat.

 

Re: Name that carb!! UPDATE!!

Ok. The numbers on the front of the carb indicate it's a Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger 4 barrel. I'm assuming this is way too much for my 304 (I confirmed it is a 304). Also, it has a 2V (I'm assuming stock) manifold with a 4V adapter. Is the adapter a real bad thing? I was looking at the Holley site and the 470 cfm 4V Truck Avenger caught my eye. Would this be a decent set up? Any ideas what $$ I can get for my current carb? I probably won't do the swap until this winter since everything runs fine (althought inefficient and stinky) and it's been down for several months for other mods since I bought it. I just want to drive it!! Thanks for your help guys.

 

That would be a fine carburetor for that engine. The 2V manifold raises the intake resistance and lowers the "volumetric efficiency" of the setup, though it's no worse than with the original carburetor. You'd get the most out of the 4V carb if you replace the 2V manifold with a used early 360 4V manifold (square pattern!) or an aftermarket manifold like the Edelbrock.

Half new is a good WAG for used parts.

You could also go to the parts store and buy a rebuilt carb for your application and use the existing manifold ... way cheaper...