Offset Dana 44 Required ?

Hello,
I currently have a 67 Dana 44 in the Jeep with a Model 18 transfer case.
I would like to swap in a narrowed Ford 9 Inch with a detroit locker. When narrowing the 9 inch rear, do I have to offset the differential like the Dana 44 is or can I keep it centered. I know I could upgrade to a Model 20 T-case and be okay, but I'd rather keep the Model 18 as it has been completely overhauled (0 miles) Will the driveline angle be too severe ? I was thinking of going with a custom double ujoint drive shaft at the T-case end. Any thoughts on this appreciated.

Extreem

 

It has been done but that was with no lift and for a short period of time IIRC. It would be best to do it right the first time and just offset the 9in.

 

way too severe of an angle on such a short driveshaft. the longer wheelbase of a cj6 would still be too severe in my opinion.

swap out to a dana 20 tcase or have the ford 9" setup for the dana 18 (a lot of $$$$)

 

No offset/offset is ok in a Wagoneer, but not in a CJ IMO. The Tom Woods website has good tech on angles: http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

Measure it!

 

I too would reccomend you offset the 9. However if it were me I would center the 9 and buy a atlas. I just think if your going to make upgrades why not go all the way?
Were are you from? I would like to upgrade to a centered rearend. I have a offset 44 with detroit and full floatin' Dutchmans now.

 

Or hell my 18 is tired want to sell that rebuilt one?

 

Why a 9"? Over on IFSJA, anytime anyone mentions 9", the 14-bolt GM fans whip out a half dozen good reasons why the 9" is ok for hot rods, but not for Jeeps. Personally I think you're wasting your money narrowing a 9" rear end for a CJ, when you can buy a 44 that will bolt in.

 

I wouldn't call a swap to a model 20 an "upgrade". Offset the 9 " or better yet upgrade an offset 44 with good full floater axles.

JB

 

A 44 with full floater upgraded axels is evry bit as good as a ford 9. IMHO.

 

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice. This project has been under construction for years and is nearing completion. The Dana 44 w/ tapered axles has always concerned me. I'm at a loss as to upgrading the 44 with either a full floater kit or flanged axles and a locker or just putting in a different rear end. I plan on running 38" mud tires ( yeah I know there big but the whole project was built around running big tires and will be off road only).
At this point I'm getting ready to have custom shafts made and really need to make a decision on upgrading this rear or putting something different in its place.

So I guess the question should really be......." If I plan to run 38's - 40's , what should I be running for a rear axle and should it be offset or centered ? As far as the front, once I break the Model 27, I'll likely put in a 44.

 

wow! 38-40's on a D27? Won't last real long. Even a 44 front is going to be marginal with that size tire. I'm not saying they don't last when used like this but I think the D27 will be your major weak link not the rear tapered axle d44. my .02.

 

myself I wouldn't put a 9" in anything but the trash. Long story but it ended with ! if I had to have one in my GPv I would swap to a Dana 20 or yes, the Atlas but that depends on how hard your going to beat that Jeep! If your not RC'in it, then really you don't need a 20. It's just a stronger case, so what! I would spend my money on lift, tires, engine modd's gears, and such before I put a 9" through this! If your going to do that you must eat paper and crap c-notes. Down here it's 900 to modd the tubes and axles, then 450 for gear work, plus parts! Then prepare for the front gears next! Lest we not forget new driveline for the rear, and front, then the knowledge the the WORST rated axle is probly under your truck in the boonies. What 9" is it, N or WAR?

 

38’s to 40’s? Wow, that’s a bit on the big side.
Couple of things. First, if you’re gonna run that much tire I hope for your sake that you’re also plan’n to extend the wheel base out as close to 100” as is reasonable, otherwise you’re gonna raise your CG (center of gravity) and make your Jeep considerably less stable.
Also, with tires that big you’re waste’n time with a 9”. You should be look’n at 1-ton axles, Dana 60’s or a combination of Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear. Though what you’d be do’n then is move’n the stressed point up to the transfer case and you’ll start have’n problems with that Dana 18, a Dana 20 is only marginally stronger. So, you might as well upgrade that part to an NP 205. Thing is, it’s a little expensive to mate an NP205 to a Jeep transmission, besides Jeep transmissions aren’t exactly the strongest ones made, so you might wanna upgrade that to an SM420 or SM465…..you see what I’m get’n at here?
It’s my suggestion that you tame down what exactly it is you want before get’n into a never-ending sequence of upgrading weak parts.
Me, I’m go’n Waggy 44’s and 35” Boggers and call’n it good. Nothing I do necessitates anything bigger, IMO.

 

Yeh with tires that big a 9in will not survive. Remember a 9in is basicly a little stronger then a 44 even if it is built up. 9in axles make good dragracing/streetrod axles but really they can not take the torque numbers that you start to make when you are offroad.

 

The 9" is a BAD choice, REALLY BAD! with those tires and rim sizes prepare for expensive tow bills when you drive it out the driveway! Plus you better gear the snot out of it which means trimming alittle off the case!

 

Here’s a picture I took down at Disney OK when this rock buggy, run’n a Jeep 4.0 motor with 38” tires and a Ford 9” rear, busted the rear differential. It literally spit the pinion gear straight out the front of the differential housing, that’s what the sparks are from, just as I snapped this picture.

 

You need Dana 60's to run 38's I have 38's now and they snap front shafts like toothpicks. Then you will find your transfer case is not up to the task of 38's.
Hey ya wanna buy some 38's?