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Body Lead No Sticky :(.

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Howard Eisenhauer, Aug 1, 2006.

  1. Aug 1, 2006
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,124
    Any Lead Heads Here?

    I'm moving into the bodywork phase of the rebuild on Tonka & am having a bit of a problem covering up my sloppy work with lead. Specifically I'm working on the hat channels at the moment. I've sanded, ground, brushed, fluxed (white stuff for brazing), fluxed (plumbing stuff), cleaned, begged, pleaded & prayed. Damn solder won't stick to the metal no matter what :/. I've used the stuff before to fill in some pitting on various items & it adheared perfectly :?.

    Reading on Eastwood's site they refer to using a tinning compound & paste so I ran out to the local body supply place today (where I bought the lead from) & they never heard of tinning paste.

    Any recommendations??

    Thanks,

    Howard.
     
  2. Aug 1, 2006
    Bucket of Bolts

    Bucket of Bolts Broke Member

    Dinuba, Ca.
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2006
    Messages:
    60
    I have used eastwoods tinning paste, it works. I think you can clean it with muriatic acid and tin it with a little lead before laying it down. I am a rookie at it too, but has to be tinned to work. I have no problem with a little "bondo" type filler on the jeep. lead goes on the 51 Merc.
     
  3. Aug 1, 2006
    Txjake

    Txjake I wrenched with Sparky

    Oklahoma City OK
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2006
    Messages:
    544
    I have a brick of lead from my Dad's day as a master plumber. If someone could use it, it is theirs for postage.
     
  4. Aug 1, 2006
    tdobson

    tdobson Tom

    Hampton, Va.
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2004
    Messages:
    65
    Being an old telephone man we used lead to "wipe" the splice cases for our cable. Of course our splice cases were made of lead but the basic procedure was to scuff the area to allow the lead or solder to stick, clean the area with flux. (we used styrene), and make sure the heat is applied to the splice case and let it melt the lead or solder. As the lead or solder would start to set we would wipe it with a padded cloth to get rid of any excess material and to make it look smooth.

    I havent tried it on the jeep but I've been thinking about it.

    Good luck.
     
  5. Aug 2, 2006
    rmuell01

    rmuell01 New Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2006
    Messages:
    11
    just what tdobson said.

    Are you using 70/30 lead mix or non-lead solder?
    I ruff up the surface, clean the surface with degreaser, put on the flux (tinning paste), heat it lightly, rub it off, heat up the solder, twist the solder into the body when it starts to melt, put pressure on the melted solder and move it around. I did this just a few days ago.

    if you have to order the flux get Johnson manuf., Tin Ezy Butter, this stuff seems to work better than a few other products I've tried. don't forget to put either tallow or beeswax on your wooden paddle.

    http://www.johnsonmfg.com/temp/TINNING.HTM
     
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