hei wiring order?

I'm sure this has been covered, but I can't find it anywhere.
I've been reading up on the hei install, Mines allready in and running. But runs bad at higher rpms/load. Vaccum line hooked up and disconnected. I got an advance kit with new springs and wieghts and that helped the low end, but still sputters and pops when you gun the throttle.

I know there are different sized lugs on the inside of the cap. Long, med, and short. I'm starting to think I might have the timing right, but the plugs are attached to the wrong spots on the cap.

Someone want to tell me which plug is supposed to hook up to the long lug on the cap? i think there was only one that was long. I can go from there.



I've also got the MSD hooked in right now. If this doesn't help I'm going to try putting the 4 pin module back inside the hei and see if its the msd. One thing at a time.

 

anyone???

 

I believe what your looking for is the order of ODD to EVEN cyls for an HEI swap...

http://home.off-road.com/~merls_garage/oddfire.html

This shows it lower on the page (better than I can explain). If you need to clock the wire positions you must remember to move by 2 - not the standard 1.

HTH

 

This is what I needed
Forgot about that page. Think I even had it bookmarked.
Thanks Warloch8)

 

Re: hei wiring order?/runs like crud

Well, I had it all wired up right. It is off by 2 lugs so my #1 is where the #3 is on that picture. Rotor lines up, the magnetic pickups all line up just right.

Cyl #1 was all the way up.

Just to refresh my memory, the #1 piston should go up twice per firing order, right? up on compression, back up on exhaust. Will the timing marks line up both times?
Only thing I can think of right now is that I have it 180 Out. Runs good at idle, and no/not much load, but as soon as you stomp on the gas, brap-brap-brap...

I've tried the advance with and without vaccum, stuck a screw in the way so the vaccume advance won't move, still all the same reaction. This is with and without the MSD hooked in now too.

Think I'm going to try flipping the distributor 180* when I get back from school and give that a try unless one of you guys can clue me into something else.

 

Allready did that. EVERYTHING lines up like its supposed to.
Going to try flipping it 180 from where its at and see what that does. If not, the old points distributor is going back in...

 

Odds are your 180 out. I check by putting a finger on the #1 spark plug hole and feeling the compression... Then to TDC. Yes, timing marks line up on both exhaust and compression strokes.

The other thing to check is make sure your TDC on the timing marks is the 'real' TDC. I have a brass TDC plug, but you can use a straw in the #1 hole to find the 'top' and make sure its at 0 degrees...

Yes - I have had that problem too - turns out I put the timing chain back on a little off

 

When mine was 180* out it didn't sputter or pop, ran smooth. Just lacked power. Badly lacked power. Passenger side ran cold, driver's side ran hot.

The actual location of plug #1 doesn't matter as long as the rotor points at it at TDC. I've had mine all over the place until I found an arrangement that worked with the vacuum advance and everything like that.

 

I didn't even think to check the temp of the banks. I'll have to try that.

The only thing I did to the motor this winter was pull the timing cover off to replace the gasket. Never touched the timing gears so I can safetly say those are not out of wack. Only thing I did was swap the distributors.

Like you said sparky, it runs smooth, but lacks the power. From what I was reading I was hoping it was the vacume advance. Or too much of it.

I think what I might have done is set it for the TDC on the exhaust stroke.

 

Check the temp of the banks. If it runs smooth but just lacks alot of power then I'd say you're 180* out for sure.

 

Well.....

It isn't the distributor.
Moved the oil pump/distributor shaft one tooth, and it still popped at higher rpm's.

Pulled the HEI and threw the old points distributor back in with the MSD hooked up, timed it to 5* and it fired right up just the same. Runs good at low rpm's, allright on slow acceleration, and popped like crazy with high rpm's.

Gotta be something with the carb. Haven't checked the fuel filter, but thats the next thing on the list.
If that don't work, I'm ready to toss this carb and get a new one.


---btw, gaskets to the manifold "should" be good. I checked them last time I put the carb back on. Might be getting air in somewhere. Kinda hard to test for stuff with only a few minutes of run time. NO radiator on limits the temps I can run up to. Dropping that off monday to get fixed.

 

Don't go there Brian. This is like deja vu all over again.

 

Guess what Sparky?R) :evil:

Looks like I've got a bad cam.
Last night I cleaned some crud out of the fuel filter, still didn't help.
For some reason all the extra smoke made me think to pull the valve covers. Drivers side bank was good. Pulled the pass bank and I've got a valve on cyl#4 that barely moves. Maybe an 1/8"? Pushrod looks good. so I'm just assuming lifter/cam is worn down.
Looks like its going to rain any minute, but I'm going to tear back into it as much as I can to find out just what it is in a few.

Sucks because I just put a new intake seal on just over a year ago, and just redid the timing cover this winter. I fixed some major leaks and now I've got to tear it back apart...

 

Geez, at least you tracked yours down alot faster than I did. Hopefully my ordeal helped with that.

 

Little bit. Finally got around to feeling the banks yesterday. Both were hot right away. Diddn't even think about the valves untill late last night after I'd given up on it. I really thought it was the carb.

Its been slowly burning more oil, but I had thought that was from getting some muddy water into the engine a while back. But it REALLY started blowing smoke the last couple days. Don't know why all of a sudden, but hopefully I found the problem