Carb Overflows

Hi all
I am new to the forum.
I have been scanning and reading a lot of the threads but this is my first posting.
I have had a 1963 cj5 for the last 3 years.
I run it in the summer and put a tarp over it in the winter.
I really do no winterising before storing. All I do is add some gas stablizer to the gas tank.
All in all this jeep has been great with very few issues.

The carb has developed an overflow problem which just happened at the end of last season before storing.

I read a few threads on this forum that have said that sometimes the float mechanisim gums up and by pouring a little SeaBreeze down the throat of the carb while it is running will free it up. Well ....I tried this and unfortunately this did not help me.

When I start it up and leave it idling there is no overflow of gas, even when I rev the engine for a while the carb does not overflow.

It appears to overflow only when I take it up or down an incline.

I have attached some picks which show where it is leaking and has been leaking for anybody who has an opinion.

Again when the jeep is stationary and running there is no overflow even when I bring the revs up and keep it there for a while there is no overflow.
Only overflows on hills....wierd.

any comments would be appreciated.
I get a little uncomfortable when I take the kids for a ride strapped into the back seat in there car seats.
I do keep the fire extinguisher close.


Thx
Fred

 

altho i dont have anything that might help you (except it sounds like a bad float), welcome to the board.
sounds like when it gets at angles, the float goes down (with the bowl level) and gets stuck, or is filled 1/2 way with gas and doesnt want to play ball...

 

I got tired of mine doing the same thing and went out and bought a replacement carb from weber carburators! It's not original but works great and give better mileage and horsepower.

 

An in-line fuel pressure regulator can help these kinds of problems sometimes. But ditto on the flooded float...

Pete

 

Re the Seafoam, that won't help your float sticking - if a cleaner will make any difference, it has to come in with the gasoline.

It's pretty easy to take the top off of the carburetor. I'd suggest you do that and take a look at where the float wrt the fuel level. Don't know very much about YFs for F4s, but usually a stuck float means there is dirt in the fuel, or the float and/or needle valve is binding.

 

I would have to agree, from what you have said so far, that you have float issues. You may want to rebuild what you have but if you are gonna go with a new carb, I would go with a Weber too.

 

Looks like the issue has been pretty well covered - what you're describing is a float level problem, plain and simple. What I'd like to know is - what's with the gasket hanging out in the #4 picture? Looks like a case of the wrong gasket, or a way-too-universal carb rebuild kit! As to the fuel level, I would pull the bowl, and measure the float level using a steel scale, or the little paper one they give you with the kit. Make sure it's set to spec. If the float is a replacement foam one, hold a lit match to it (after drying it). If it supports a flame, it's saturated with gas, and too heavy. If it's brass, hold it under hot water, and look for bubbles. Maybe it's leaking. Inspect the float hinge pin (should be smooth and shiny), and the float valve seat (ditto). Make sure the float valve itself has a clean, smooth conical tip, and that it doesn't hang up.

 

Thanks for all the feedback....
yeah that gasket does not look right!!


To access the float area can i just undo the 5 bolts holding the top cover down in Pic # 2?

I am currently trying to source a repair manual for the 63 cj5.
Any recommendations on a manual?

Thx
Fred

 

Check some of the info in this thread.
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28473
In my opinion, if you can't go with some of the better ones, at least go with Chiltons. I'm not to fond of Haynes.

 

Well, Fred, welcome to the board! I went through the same exact issue with my 61. Problem developed sometime after a generic rebuild kit was installed. Carter YF on an F-head. If you do a search here for that, you will see lots of posts about this very issue. Generic kits have a float valve orifice of .101 as opposed to .081. If you spring for the correct kit from The Carb Shop - (573) 392-7378) he will know just what you are talking about. Kit is $48 + S&H!! I dd, and still couldn't make mine quit leaking. Don't know why.

I whined about it so much for so long, a most generous member here donated a proper Solex replacement carb. The Solex you would see in JC Whitney isn't correct. Order one from Krage's or Walck's, it will be what you want, if you get tired of fooling with the YF. They can be made to work proper again, but I had no luck. The Solex is very cold-blooded, but I am told they are far superior otherwise. Haven't been able to play with mine enough to tell you much more

Get a Factory Service Manual from Krage's or Walck's. The most important part of JEEP happiness. Most everything you need is in there. Well worth the money. Hang out here, and you will learn everything else!!

 

Thanks again for the feedback.

Will probably look into getting a replacement carb .

I have read enough of your comments to know that trying to rebuild could lead me into muddy waters.

thx
Fred

 

This is probably quite a self evident question but I have to ask.

What are the chances the carb overflowing could start and engine fire?
(Or worse, explode the gas tank under my seatR) )

I have not had time to source a replacement carb yet and would like to drive around a bit with the kids this weekend.

Should I be concerned for safety reason?
I do carry a fire extinguisher.

Thanks
Fred

 

no fuel leak is a good fuel leak...
words to live by

 

The carb overflowing shouldn't cause a fire of any kind so I wouldn't worry about that part. However, a small spark that could come from any electrical wire under the hood at the alternator, distributor, plug wires, battery, or any other thing electrical could cause the fuel to ignite. As long as you take all of these things out and don't drive near anything that could cause a spark, you should be ok.

 

Please, no leaks. Wet gas on a hot motor is not going to make for a happy memory. Be patient, and fix or eliminate the problem before you regret it. Trust me, the cost of an engine fire and whatever else comes in that package will be much more than a replacement carb. Even if you send it to the Carb Shop to have him do it for you. I haven't heard of anybody going that route, although I thought about it before I bought his kit. There's always Solex. I know it's frustrating, but......