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Oil Filler Tube Fit

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by Gump, Nov 10, 2005.

  1. Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    Mine's pretty loose in the block, kinda like if I hit a bump it would fly out. Would a new one fit better or is there a trick to make it fit tighter?

    Thanks,
     
    Gump, Nov 10, 2005
    #1
  2. neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....

    Mine has the same problem, that is actually the only place that leaks :mad: So I'm interested to see what you find out also.
     
    neptco19, Nov 12, 2005
    #2
  3. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Maybe you could J-B Weld it in there? That stuff should fill the gap and cement it in place. You'd have to get the tube and block area really clean and oil-free first.
     
    Rondog, Nov 12, 2005
    #3
  4. rmtaunton

    rmtaunton New Member

    i cleaned mine off and used red (high temp) rtv hasnt leaked or given me trouble since
     
    rmtaunton, Nov 15, 2005
    #4
  5. neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....

    Thats what I was going to try.

    off topic: In your avatar where you able to make it up that line at GR.
     
    neptco19, Nov 15, 2005
    #5
  6. rmtaunton

    rmtaunton New Member

    its worked for over a year,, and never leaked ,, although when i pull the cap off i always put one hand on the tube to hold it down ,,,but my cap is really tight
     
    rmtaunton, Nov 15, 2005
    #6
  7. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    I used Permatex "Super Copper" RTV on mine, and nary a leak. There is a clamp that bolts to the oil filter bracket that is supposed to hold the tube in place, but I liek having the security of a nice seal on the base so water doesn't have a way to migrate into the block...
     
    w3srl, Nov 16, 2005
    #7
  8. Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    A clamp eh, I wonder who sells them. One of the 2A Page members made an anvil to spred the bottom of the tube then you tap the edges back a little to start it into the block. He wants ~$13 including shipping for it. Seems like a good idea.
     
    Gump, Nov 16, 2005
    #8
  9. Mojave

    Mojave Member

    Seems to me a regular double flaring tool could be used to do both the job of flaring the tube slightly, and rolling the end back into a taper. Wouldn't even have to do the taper part, if you were to flare a bit, trial fit, flare, etc. Just flare enough for a snug interference fit.
     
    Mojave, Nov 16, 2005
    #9
  10. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    That would probably work, except that he L- and F-head dipstick tube is about 1-1/4" in diameter!

    If you ar elooking for a correct hold-down clamp, I'm sure Walck's and other would have them. I used a piece of plumbing strap to make a new one, and painted it black to match the rest of the engine. You'd never notice it. ;)
     
    w3srl, Nov 16, 2005
    #10
  11. Mojave

    Mojave Member

    Yeah - I work on military gear, and I forget that not everyone has access to the bigger flaring dies! Call it "brain freeze". Maybe an automotive exhaust flaring bit would work - anyway, a $13 anvil doesn't sound so bad, unless you can find a cone-shaped piece of steel or aluminum around the shop to work the edges against. We do a bit of blacksmithing as well - even the horn on a regular anvil will do this job.
     
    Mojave, Nov 17, 2005
    #11
  12. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Geez, I hadn't even thought about taking it to a muffler shop to have it expanded on the mandrel machine. I think I'd take the Jeep with me though, so I could trial-fit it, so they don't get it stretched to far...

    Great idea Mojave! :beer:
     
    w3srl, Nov 17, 2005
    #12
  13. Gump

    Gump Old Timer

    Good idea. We have a shop here so I guess I could wait 'til the guys go home then play around with stuff ;)
     
    Gump, Nov 17, 2005
    #13