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Bellcrank Shaft Length

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by huntnjeep, Sep 21, 2005.

  1. huntnjeep

    huntnjeep New Member

    Hi everyone,

    I just installed my bellcrank rebuild kit and everything went great except one little problem.

    The new 7/8" shaft came with a hole drilled through the end so you can put in a cotter pin, thereby preventing the locknut on top of the bellcrank from coming off. After I got everything snugged up, the shaft doesn't stick up far enough for me to put in the cotter pin, and there's really not enough shaft there to drill a new hole.

    I didn't think much about it at first since the original shaft didn't have a cotter pin. But I noticed the nut was grabbing and spinning loose when I turned the steering wheel.

    Any recommendations on how I can remedy this?
     
  2. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    I think if it were me I'd pull the nut off and hit the top edge of the nut with a grinding wheel to remove that tapered face
    just grind enough to make the face of the nut flat or to allow enough clearance for the cotter pin
     
  3. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    You could also try to find a castellated nut, that's the kind with the notches all around for the cotter pin, looks like the top of a castle.
     
  4. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    X2
     
  5. Castellated nut is the way to go. I probably have one from my ross steering. It's yours if you pm your address. I'll look tonight.
     
  6. barry

    barry Inquisitive Member

  7. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    That horizontal bolt in the picture should be tightened enough for the housing to clamp down on the bell crank bolt, the bell crank bolt shouldn't even turn. I assume the big bolt was slotted so the horizontal bolt will hold it from falling out? That's in the worst case scenario.
     
  8. huntnjeep

    huntnjeep New Member

    Glenn,

    I had the horizontal bolt clamped down to the point that the bellcrank would rotate freely, as per the instruction manual. The 7/8" bellcrank bolt is as smooth as a baby's bottom, so the only thing really holding it in is the locknut on the top of the assembly.

    Either way, I got the problem solved. I combined the advice from "jpflat2a" and "Rondog", and used my grinder to remove a little bit of the tapered edge, then I used the edge of the grinder to cut some grooves into the top of the nut. Basically I wound up making a "modified castle nut".

    I don't know if anyone else can relate, but this was one of those easy fixes that is so simple to do, that you completely overlook the solution. When I read jpflat2a's comment about grinding the tapered edge off the nut, it was like someone smacked me in the back of the head. I was like "Oh duh...I should have known that!" :rofl:

    Thanks for all your help guys :oops:
     
  9. gscj5

    gscj5 H2 Recovery Team

    My rebuild kit came with a castle nut...hummm. Where did you buy it?
     
  10. huntnjeep

    huntnjeep New Member

    gscj5,

    I bought the kit from 4WD Co.