setting preload on the front wheel bearings

couple more questions. 10" drums, 69 cj5. first are these brake linings sintered metal and not asbestos? the wet stuff is cleaner drying.

second on top of the outer bearings are these three pieces which is less than what i am used to. there is no locking washer with a bendable tab just the keyed washer with the holes in it which seem to match with a raised "knob" on the outer locking nut.

so. after cleaning the outer bearings in solvent and repacking with either red grease or napa/valvoline synthetic grease i then clean off the spindle, recoat the spindle, put the inner nut with the notches in it back on and tighten until the wheel binds then back off about 1/6 turn, put the washer with the holes in the edge back on and torque the crap out of the outer lock nut. pack the area around the nut with more grease. replace the lock out hub, torque the six bolts to about 50lbs. see if the tire wiggles if not, i'm done it it does it redo it.

do i need to remove the inner bearing and seal and replace them with new and greased?

i used brake cleaner on the drum and wiped it down a couple of times did the same to the linings to get the crud off which was definitely soaked with old steering fluid.

any cautions? ( i really hate chasing my front wheel down the highway so i'm being cautious. it's been a long time since i've repacked bearings)

 

Do you want to do this right or get by?

Doing it right:
Those brake shoes should be replaced they would be in any certified shop. And you need to do both sides for safety. And with new shoes I would have the drums checked for round and if need be cut as little as possible to clean them up. Most NAPA's can do this very reasonable.




I can't help you with the spindle nut but suggest you look in your shop manual... If you don't have the proper shop manual for your Jeep it should be your next purchase.

 

Thers is also suppose to be a bendable washer between the 2 nuts to lock it in place, someone has obviously left it out or lost it.

 

the brake shoes look iffy to me
clean them well if you want to re-use; even then, you may not get all the oil/grease contamination out of the linings. The linings are the bonded/glued type; no rivets to gouge the drum; your linings do show some abnormal wear IMO.
I would replace the wheel seals and inspect/repack the inner bearings as well. Easier to do this now (doesn't take that much extra time) then out on the road somewhere.
Don't forget to fill the hub cavity between the bearings with extra grease as well.
The hub nuts are a mismatch; you should be using 2 of the hex nuts and the washer with the tab in it (on each side) which aligns in the spindle groove. You then bend a small ear of that washer over to lock it.
there should also be a "wear" washer that rides up against the outer wheel bearing, which the innner nut rides against. Do you have both of them ?
I tighten the inner nut while spinning the wheel till snug; then back ofrf slightly.
While the shoes might be of concern, I don't see anything unsafe here. I can't tell from the pick the thickness or amount of lining left before it hits the shoe; if very close, then replacement might be best.
A manual is a very good investment.
Everyone is encouraged to ask as many questions as they like here; that is what this forum is all about.

 

That outer round nut if you look real close will have allen head lock screws going through the front to the back, you neet to line these up with holes in the washer and tighten them to lock the nuts in place, of just replace them with the more common style for like $10 a wheel...

BUBBA

 

Those shoes are dangerous.

Brake friction amterial when contaminated with oil can get VERY grabby. On servo type drum brakes it can cause them to actually lock up from you just touching the brakes... to add to the fun when they lock up they will jam themselves on HARD and not release. Replace the shoes, do nto try to 'make it work' as is.

If the shoes, drum and backing plate are a scontaminated a syours look it is coming from somewhere andI very much doubt it is steering.... hoe woudl it get in the drum?

Replace the inner seal and repack the bearing, also check the wheel cylinder. As long as the brakes have been rep[aced in the last like 10 years they are asbestos free.

Not recomemeded for any more then EMERGENCY use but the only good way to clean oil outof brake shoes are pads is to boil it out with a torch. This will greatlyu reduce the liufe of the friction material but it can get you home.

 

Yes. Any oil or grease on the shoes (other than fingerprints) and they are ruined. Relined shoes are cheap.

Underneath the brake drum should be dusty and dry. You must replace the hub seals, but the wheel cylinders look ok from these pics. Remove all traces of oil and grease outside of the hub. I would replace all the hardware too, although it may be tough to get springs for the 10" brakes. You can test the springs by dropping them onto a concrete floor. A good spring will sound dead, like a stone. A bad spring will buzz.

 

Lots of good points above - Brake shoes are inexpensive, and brakes are probably the most critical components on your Jeep, so don't "cheap" the job! While you're in there, may as well replace all the seals, inspect and pack bearings (replace any that show rippling or uneven wear), and have the drums trued up. Good time to service your hubs as well. A couple of notes I didn't notice mentioned above (if they were, my apologies for the repeat) - Using solvent to clean bearings isn't such a hot idea. Stoddard Solvent and similar solvents leave an oily residue behind that prevents the bearing grease from doing its job properly after you pack the bearings. Before packing, de-grease the bearings and races using brake cleaner, so no solvent residue remains. Also, its a good idea to have new brake shoes checked for arc when you are having the drums trued up, as most brake rebuilders don't bother. Beveling the leading edge of the shoes will help them to engage more smoothly, and with less noise (you can do this part yourself).

 

that's exactly the way this is set up. a notched round inner nut, the washer with holes in it and the outer lock nut. that's why i asked, i've never seen this way before and it isn't mentioned in the fsm. even with the "extra clearance" the lock nut in near the end.

on this side the lockout hub is the "standard" warn manual type. not the premium. i would eventually like to replace it with the premium warn.

so this is "situation normal" in an abnormal way?

 

oh. so the small bump i saw on the back is actually the tip of an allen screw i couldn't see the head of since it was covered with grease. i'm gonna clean these small pieces off in brake cleaner then rinse em in alchohol.

this is a great help!

i was gonna replace the shoes any way cause you all are right, they look dangerous to me. i'll have the drums trued and the lining arched probably at napa or my local place. new seals. and i might as well see if they'll replace the wheel studs with conventional ones so i can remove the drum without the hub. perhaps the springs as well.

regarding the oil leak. given how bad leak had been.. the old leaf springs on that side were saturated enough to be colored red. i think that it actually made past the lip of the drum. cause i don't see any other source leaking and it's "old" fluid.