Setting Up Parking Brake System On My 3a

This Jeep will not be using a propeller shaft brake drum.

Right now what I have are the 11” rear Bendix drum brakes (removed from an intermediate CJ) with no cables nor actuation pedal/lever.

Considering installing:
1) a park brake pedal assembly and cable as were used on intermediates. Are the intermediate pedal assemblies rock solid ?
Or is the post 1975 pedal assembly a better unit ?

2) single pull type lever to be located somewhere foreward of floor riser between front seats.

3) considering dual park brake levers for use as cutting brakes. Is this effective ?

Here 3 different levers I am considering.
What lever works best ?
M38-A1 = https://www.ebay.com/itm/355613828436
Gama Goat = https://www.ebay.com/itm/173049866891
Military trailer = https://www.ebay.com/itm/295699758795

 

I'ld use the m38a1 lever for a single non cutting brake arrangement, the others have a frustrating adjustment to get right for them to lock.
If you have a powr-loc or auto locker use a single lever, cutting brakes won't work.

open diffs and selectable can use cutting brakes but I would use a foot lever to pull and lock the two cables at the balance bar (I have no idea the name) use two simple non locking handles (hockey stick ends or tube with bicycle grips to replicate the trailer and goat handle) to pull the individual cables.

 

Now I don't have much experience, but it seems to me like cutter brakes won't do you a ton of good on a CJ. To my knowledge, one mainly uses them to drag around tight corners. I'm sure you could use them some places, but it might be an unnecessary expense. It would be pretty cool though. Perhaps someone with more knowledge will chime in.

 

Yes I do have Powr Loks.
In fact I have them in all 8 of my Jeep axles.
Have not ever tried cutting brakes.
You think Powr Loks won’t work with cutting brakes ?

Just a thought.
Originally I planned to go with the 1972-1975 pedal type assembly.
I definitely won’t be using a dash mounted cane pull type handle on these 11” Bendix wheel brakes.
I have no pull type handle on my dash panel and don’t expect a pull type cane would be firm enough to really stop the Jeep well enough anyways.

Like some more opinions on which foot pedal vs lever handle is best.
Why is the price for the M38-A1 lever on eBay so high !

As far as the cables goes I will run a single cable to both backing plates. This cable will need to be uncovered at center section to attach an equalizer. The 2 upper sheath ends of the single wheel cable will need some sorta stops welded onto the tub. Was planning to use factory style equalizer and seperate cable going direct to the pedal or lever.
I will be welding another single cable mount onto the tub somewhere near the floor riser at center of of body tub.

 

Any time you use the cutter brakes, you'll have the powr lok fighting the locked axle shaft. It might work, but you'd be putting a lot of force on those clutch pads and will probably lose most of the usable power.

 

Yep that sounds real.

Here’s a look at my intermediate backing plate.


Here’s a look at my lower cable:


Here’s a look at an upper cable with the equalizer:

 

"Now I don't have much experience, but it seems to me like cutter brakes won't do you a ton of good on a CJ. To my knowledge, one mainly uses them to drag around tight corners."

The term "Cutting Brakes" refers to their use for turning purposes, but there is another use.

On an open differential rear axle having the ability to apply the brake one one side selectively serves as an effective way to gain better traction by braking the wheel that is spinning, power is transferred to the other wheel. We used to call this a "Poor man's locker", and it was very commonly used on sand rails, and Jeeps back in the day.

It would not be needed with a locker, and I am not sure how this would work with a limited slip differential, I too would be concerned about the clutches in the Powr-Lok.

 

Interesting. Seems a bit archaic with today's abundant lockers, but that's a cool trick nonetheless.

 

Outside of my personal experience other than tractors - but I understood that cutting brakes can be used with a "open" differential to help put power to the wheel with traction, by braking the one that is spinning...

 

I can most likely eliminate the upper cable by positioning an M38-A1 lever directly behind the transmission and fabricating a solid link to the lower cable. Lower cable still requires a pair of sheath brackets on the tub.
I like the long leverage and the shape of the m38-A1 parking lever.
Somebody sell me one !

 

They are available. Check DeBella, or Ebay.

 

Thanks fino that’s perfect only I have to make them outta stainless.

 

"Interesting. Seems a bit archaic with today's abundant lockers, but that's a cool trick nonetheless."

Archaic ? Only from today's viewpoint.

When I said "back in the day" I was referring to the 60s - 80s. Lockers existed for Jeep differentials, never knew of one for a VW transaxle, but either way they were not as prevalent as today, nor was as much information available in those days before the internet. This was an effective traction aid that was easy to do and very affordable. You just went to a junk yard and looked for the needed parts. Ford Pintos were plentiful in the junk yards of the day and they had excellent hand brake levers. Various Jeep vehicles with the needed rear brake plates were also easier to find in junk yards of the time than they are today.

 

It should force the cross shaft all the way up the ramp and then eventually overpower the clutch pack. I don't think it is good practice with a 19 spline axle.

 

30 spline axles but yeah I agree hard on case ramps, clutches and axles.
Besides I’m sure I can live without skid steer/cutting brakes.

 

I meant no offense by that. What you said is exactly what I meant. Nowadays there are lockers everywhere and tons of info on them, which makes cutter brakes less prevalent today than they once were.