Dauntless Broken Carb Bolts

I got this ‘69 CJ5, Dauntless V6 and had to go through the fuel system because there’s no telling how old the gas in it was. The thing ran like a Swiss watch. I don’t know how because when I removed and drained the tank, and removed the fuel filter, I was shocked at the amount of rust and crud. Anyway, I decided to rebuild the carb and replace the fuel pump as part of the project, to give it my best attempt at a “clean” start. Ad you can see, the front 2 bolts broke Have any if you had success removing these with heat and PB Blaster, or should I just give in and drill and re-tap? Also, the exhaust bypass ports are completely blocked. Should I clean them out, or leave them blocked off?

thanks for any advice!

 

I vote not a chance. Just drill and tap it. You can try heat and weld a nut on but I wouldnt chance breaking off an ez out no way. You are taking a big chance rebuilding things when it was running so good. I did that a few times and they never ran as good after

 

Oh man. My heart just sank even more after reading your reply. I knew I was opening Pandora’s box, but figured it was necessary after seeing all the **** that came out of that gas tank and fuel filter. I figured the carb was in need of help. The gas tank was so rusty, but turned out nice after soaking and swishing CLR for about a week, followed by cleaning vinegar, and then followed by baking soda and water. Dried in the sun for a few days and it’s nice and shiny inside I’m hoping one success will lead to another.

 

Theres a fair amount sticking up there. I'd weld nuts on them.

 

X2
I would try the nut welding first too, there is not much to loose in doing so.

If you do not drive in cold weather or are just willing to wait longer for a warm up then leave the exhaust passages shut. I actually tapped and threaded plugs in my manifold to stop the exhaust gases from circulating under the carburetor.

 

It gets pretty cold in WI . Not sure how much I will drive in Wi there because I don’t want it to rust more than it is, but I may. I like the work you did there with the plugs, but I may need the heat in winter.

 

I agree. Like you said, it’s not gonna hurt anything at this point and might just get lucky. Luck with a JEEP game s not likely, but you never know

 

welding a nut on the stubs
would be my first choice . the welding heat is a plus
good luck

 

I'd soak the hell out of them then I'm in agreement on the welding of the nuts. Not much to lose. If it doesn't go, I would pull the manifold to keep the drill crap from going inside, as well as easier to work on, and you get a new intake gasket at that point.

 

I agree. I just went through this with a broken bolt in my timing chain cover. I tried welding a nut onto the stud, but the nut just broke off (several times). If that doesn’t work, I would drill and tap one size larger - that’s what I ended up doing.

Just be aware that you need to be as exact as possible on drilling dead-center, and you might have to open up the holes in the carb to one size larger as well.
Good luck!

 

If there is still stud material sticking above the mounting surface after the nut welding failure, file it flat and center punch it as close to center as you can. Then drill with about an 1/8" bit for the pilot hole and subsequently larger bits until you just get to the bore threads. At that point you can usually get the rest out without over drilling the hole and just chase the existing treads with a tap-carefully. The last thing you want to do is break a tap off in the hole. As to that, high speed taps are WAY better than carbon for that task.

 

For the carbon build up, you can clean those ports and will be good for a long time before becoming plugged up again. You probably will never even see the difference for the engine warming up!
(I bought a thick gasket for the Rochester 2G on mine that had no provisions for those exhaust ports)

 

I would pull the intake manifold off, then heat those bolts near to cherry red with a torch, dab a little candle wax on, then immediately weld a nut on to wrench it out while still hot. It may come out if you’re very lucky. If not, follow Duffer’s plan. Don’t even bother with an easy-out.
-Donny

 

My plan is to pull to pull the intake, as suggested. I feel that will make it easiest to work on. I was also thinking along the lines of you guys (new intake gaskets as a bonus). I’ll keep y’all posted. Thanks!

 

Good news, got all the intake bolts removed without much trouble and nothing stripped or broke. Hope to get the intake removed tomorrow

 

Bees wax.. same effect, it just creeps into smaller places..

 

Off to the shop to get this cleaned up, broken bolts either removed or drilled and re-tapped as needed, and a fresh coat of GM Alpine Green. I’ll post an after pic when done

 

These things always creep into bigger projects....You're already halfway to a new timing chain!

 

If you get that far might as well check on the crank bearings too. Heck, I was changing a head light and ---- now I have the tub off and the axles in one place and the trans 0n a table. only thing left is the trailer ball. Humm maybe I should just replace it too. Fun isn't it? .