Vibrations

What would you like to see..i took a few

 

Everything. But mainly a well-lit single side shot showing the rear, the driveshaft, and t-case would help everyone see what’s going on. It’ll answer any questions about things we can only assume are correct (driveshaft phasing for example).

One thing that hasn’t been mentioned, is your front driveshaft spinning? Your rear geometry could be perfect after a lift, but it will inherently make your front angles worse due to the rearward tilt of the drivetrain. If your front shaft is spinning (due to t-case shifted into 4wd, or front drive flanges installed, or lockout hubs engaged), that could be what you’re feeling as a worse vibration.

 

Front does not turn

 

Thanks for photo!
The shaft appears to be in-phase. The pinion and transfer case lines appear to be parallel.
This arrangement looks good from a single photo.

 

are the ujoints good?

 

Now, that is the $64000 question. Before the lift they seemed fine. After, I think I hear angry squirrels. Maybe wind, it’s hard to tell

 

That's the very first thing to verify. And when were they last greased.

I speak as one who threw a driveshaft at highway speed, on my way home from the parts store with new UJ's.

 

The best way to diagnose is too make the angle measurements, then you'll know for sure. Tom Woods site is one of the best as brought up earlier.
Looking at the photo, it looks like the driveshaft u-joint ears are too close to both yokes. This could cause binding when the rear axle drops when off-road. Lowering the transfer case and raising the pinion would help, but both angles should be parallel.

 

....... You gett'n ready to dream on the " Rubicon " run , or anything similar ? Or, even if your doing any possible Hi-Way , I would go the Tom Woods route & it will be

 

lol. Neither. This is simply my grocery getter

 

Oh, well then. Just pull the rear driveshaft out, and run on the front axle only.

 

If you decide to go with the double cardan drive shaft setup, I would use Adams Drive shaft in Henderson, NV.
Much friendlier folks and local to you.

 

They’re the ones I’m thinking of

 

How about doing this and then doing the opposite ( pull the front and use just the rear)
See if vibration can be isolated to the front or rear shaft??? Just a thought

 

That is good thinking. In this case though, since the front shaft doesn’t turn in 2wd, I think its isolated

 

Ok, new u-joints are installed on the driveshaft, just waiting for paint to paint said driveshaft, because that’s what I do Question though…how tight/loose should they be. They move, but are stiff. I did the “tap on the yoke” thing the interwebs told me to do. If 1 is sloppy and 10 is unmovable, I’d say they are a 5. I’m assuming they’ll adjust ?

 

If you can flip-flop them with moderate hand pressure, I'd say that normal.

 

Do the tapping the yoke thing to see if they loosen up a little. Should be a little still but not binding. You can also clamp the joint in a vise to greese the u joint off the jeep. Ive had a couple u joints that sat on the parts shelf too long and needed fresh greese to move correctly

 

They dont bind, so I’m fairly confident they’re ok, just look more stiff than the YouTubers seem to show. These are non greasable, as I am very bad at maintenance

 

Somehow that seems backwards to me.