1963 Dodge Dart !!! Wahoo!

If you had a big block, the distributor would be in front

 

Wouldn't it be nice What idiot puts a distributor in the back!

 

Tinkering around a little today~ made fuel line, still waiting for my intake gasket

My Little Mule, or Hoyer lift, really comes in handy for things like this. It's rated for 400lbs and a plus factor being medical. The cast iron intake is stupid heavy! I have another lift, but I like this one best and always on the lookout for another one




top part of the timing cover makes a neat tool "tray"



My little exhaust "header"

 

Like this?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:97399462-5685-42e2-acfa-a55d45bdf5bf

 

I see a Datsun and it starts at 1:01 mins. in.

 

David Vizard, Unity MotorSports and Uncle Tony were going to do a collaboration on a stock 318 build called Mission Impossible. Things kinda went
sideways on that to build a high horsepower 318 and Tony dropped out of it for that reason. He is still planning on doing a stock 318 called
Mission Improbable to show what horsepower can be made on a stocker. No progress has yet been made on either project but a video was made
yesterday discussing it. May be interesting to follow.

 

Sorry. Missed the nice convertible in the background and the character the cars used to have.
I find it hard to get excited about anything new rolling off the line.

 

Ain't it the truth!

 

Help with a leak
I was so confident in getting the engine running, I was hopefully ready to put it on FB marketplace I have new rear main seals coming and pan gasket of course.

Any ideas what I could do differently

When running for a little bit, started leaking out the rear main area. I wasn't sure if it's the rear main or the rear u-shaped pan. But I sealed it very well~ funny, after it's all together, I start wondering if I put the rear main seals in correctly, but looks like I did, but I don't understand why it's leaking.


I was wondering about this "tab", but surely when compressed at 85lbs it would compress.






This looks like it sealed well.


I had it off the engine running stand and onto the regular engine stand in less than 30 minutes!


I'm beginning to suspect this area? maybe it's leaking across?

 

Maybe put a dab of RTV in there? That is what I have done on my Dauntless in the past. Still leaks though.

 

That does not look right. I have seen where the new main seals required some grinder work to shape the seal in order to get a good seal.
I can't tell if there is a slot on the main cap for the piece you have your finger on. The section that is in the slot does not appear to be
sitting proud of the main cap unless there is some v shaped molding piece sticking up. It seems that you would not get the correct torque
on that main bearing in that configuration. A better picture of the block mating surface and main sap sans seal would help. Not finding
anything on this particular setup. I agree with some RTV in the circled area and where the two ends meet. Brake Clean first.
Found this but does not show the tab.

And the seal:

 

Ironic, usually it's the wife that asks her husband to slow down and make it last.

 

where I drew the yellow up above, it's kind of an illusion, the part it question is actually a triangular piece, not recessed like it "appears". However, seems peculiar that the seal doesn't fill the seat that it sits in like the main cap your holding John.
darn, time to make dindin

 

It does not seem to fit inside the cap very snug. On the other hand, would you be able to get the block side to go
in with the crank in place? Was it a rope seal you replaced? The seal I posted the picture of would not work either
as the tabbed ends would not go in. Each manufacturer probably has their own design. Hmmm...what to do. Try
other suppliers for a look see maybe? I kinda like that double lipped seal.
Here is a write up using the Mopar supplied seal. It doesn't seam to fit that tight in the groove either.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...onal-tips-tricks-thoughts-and-theories.72472/

 

Gee John, didn't see your post until now I didn't like the way it fit either, but it was new, right! I was re-examining the old seal and considering using them again, but then the new seals showed up and they look different even though the same supplier and part number , Now waiting on a pan gasket~ I should just stock them

Even though this looks better, just wish it fit the groove better.

 

That looks like a nicer seal. From what I have read, I would use the Ultra Black sealer along with the activator. The sealant needs
to set up all the way through and in my experience the Ultra Black does when trying a Hershey kiss size blob and testing the result.
You don't want to keep doing this.

Ultra Black:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...0-ounce-rtv-silicone-sealant/perd/82180?pos=0
Activator/Prep:
https://www.permatex.com/products/t...p-activator-for-anaerobic-6-oz-4-5-oz-net-wt/
Here is a good read on sealants. It gets somewhat confusing trying to know what sealants are full anaerobic which are not. Also whether
or not to use it on gaskets and why.
https://www.permabond.com/resource-center/common-mistakes-avoid-anaerobic-adhesives/