52 M38a1 Motor Pool Resto

I buy many of my parts from Pete Debella: https://www.debellajeepparts.com/M38_TRANSFER_CASE_CATALOG.htm.
His seals are all double lipped.

 

Gotten a lot of parts from Pete and also John Bizal at Midwest Military. Their parts are top notch.
A lot of parts I ordered many years ago from Kaiser Willys were cheaply made. George Baxter at Army Jeep Parts is also good to work with.


Dave

 

Agreed on all points. KW sure markets very well but so many of their parts are from overseas. I felt bad about them buying Walck's. Karl was a good guy.

 

Not a significant update, but yesterday I received these USPS

One is the correct Stimsonite 12A and the other Stimsonite 12 (on the right). Close enough. I do need one more so I'll continue to comb eBay. Not too easy to find nowadays.

I'm thinking they're new but showing some shelf wear. I also have a short stack of Grote retainers. I have Guide retainers in the 54. I'll probably swap them out next spring.

 

Boil boil, toil and trouble...

I've read that rusted wheel cylinders benefit from a caustic bath. Strange brew, kill what's inside of you.... I think that if I drive the cups out without the rust remover, I'll score the insides of the cylinders. I'll report on this tomorrow. Plop plop fizz fizz.

 

Also buttoned up the rear diff cover with NOS gasket and Permatex spray.

The backing plates and drums are blasted and ready. I do have a nice old riveting tool, brake linings and rear wheel seals on the way....perhaps for the weekend.

 

There is a fair chance they will be pitted in any case. Honing might help. They can even be sleeved. But replacement cylinders are not big money.

 

The wheel cylinders I had were really pitted. I put on new wheel cylinders.
Tried to free up an old master cylinder, but it was too badly frozen up also.


Dave

 

Well Pete and Dave, I'm just about stubborn/optimistic enough to give it a whirl. This jeep came from SD so it's dry and everything brake related has come off nicely so far. There was brake fluid in the rear parts so I'll keep you posted. I do have a set of replacements on the shelf if need be.

 

A quick search shows this would likely be custom made? I’ve heard about it being done on a master, but no experience. Would be fun to learn. I wonder what material to use, and how thick it should be.

 

We shall see. I will definitely not go to the extent of sleeving!

 

Everything I get has rust. I did order some parts for my dad's 280ZX and I asked the guy if the parts were rusty. He said, "this is in the desert, we don't have rust."
The parts were good, but the idea of no rust was a new concept for me.

Dave

 

Note that it may have been DOT-5 fluid as specced by the military.

I use it and like it a lot, but don't want to rehash the arguments in this thread.

 

A tip I learned from a pro decades ago: Insert and set a rivet on one end of the lining. Then insert and set a rivet on the other end before setting all the others. This ensures the linings are aligned parallel to the shoe. If you set both rivets on one end first you risk the holes on the other end won't line up.

 

I've heard that starting from the middle and working your way out is the way to go, but it sounds like I have more homework to do!

 

Success with getting the pistons out of the cylinders. The puller worked like a charm. I think that the rust dissolver didn't do squat. They were seized quite nicely.

Unloaded and off for a soak in the parts cleaner. Everybody in the pool! I didn't detect pitting or scoring... Yet.

After a quick wire wheeling, the pistons are not pitted or scored which makes me believe the cylinders are in serviceable condition. The rear rebuild kits have have pistons, the fronts do not. I'll keep my fingers crossed the fronts are in good shape. You know, rebuilding each slave costs like 5 bucks. Replacing all four with Chinese parts is $100.00 After what I've laid out so far with this build, I'm starting to count my pennies.

I also got all of the small brake parts all cleaned up. No reason not to reuse them. I made sure the shim packs are going back on the correct side...

I'm waiting on axle seals and a few other things before wrapping up the brake drums. I'm off to Blalp!'s later tonight to borrow a better flairing tool than I own. Thanks Shaun!

I'm trying to get at least a couple of things done every day. Spring is coming fast. I'm about a week shy of two months since I pushed this project into the barn!

 

I have used Rustoleum Rust Dissolver. Tralehead informed me about it. That product softens rust, it does not make it magically disappear. So the rust needs to be scrubbed away. Similar to white vinegar (both use acid) but IMHO Rust Dissolver is stronger.

 

I'll try it again on different applications. My assessment it that it probably won't work well if a film of grease or oil is involved.

 

Might be true. I usually degrease before the rust remover.

 

Used the rust remover on the extra 11 in backing plates. I cleaned them well then soaked them in the Evapo Rust I have used 2 or 3 different kinds. Worked well. I had a small brass brush and scrubbed them well. Turned the rust white and then used scotch brite pads to clean them and painted them. They look to be holding up well, but I haven't installed them yet.

Dave