F 134

I'd try to find NOS and/or govmint surplus. Ebay and on-line dealers have many.

 

You have many options with the engine and other commertial or military parts in general. You can go to military OEM parts suppliers (Midwest Military) and they usually have many of the military OEM parts (which are very high quality) or they reproduce the rarer parts and they are very high quality also. If you suspect they are selling OMIX (overseas) like parts, be cautious but don't count them out entirely. Certain parts produced overseas are just fine and others are not. Much of the commercial after market stuff, like pistons, cams, valves, ect. from the major manufacturers are just fine also. For carbs and fuel pumps, ect. you can buy original cores on ebay or craiglist, ect. and rebuild if your looking for originality.

Depends what your looking for, how much time you have and what your trying to build. Of course budget also.

For example, my goal was to build an all original 24v early M38A1 with the hinged grill so I ended up buying two parts vehicles and rebuilt everything to stock. My trail jeep is built entirely different, nothing is stock and has a different purpose (and is much more fun for offroading).

 

I suppose pouring MMO down the intake would get it to the intake valves, but it would be a mess.

Since you have the rocker cover off you could just pull the rocker shaft, squirt some MMO on the valve stems below the retainer and seal. Then after letting it sit a bit lay a block of wood on the top of the valve stems give each one a tap with a hammer to see if it is free.

 

NOS parts for M38A1 - https://www.debellajeepparts.com

 

Ive also had good experiences with "Quarter Ton Military" on ebay. Very communicative. The NOS parts usually show up in a glob of cosmoline. Its like unwrapping a present with a heat gun

 

I got lucky on my Jeep, a Jeeper Guy less than 3 miles from me, had two in the box F134's from the US Army Surplus 1953. I wish I had bought them both. $800.00 for each. I got a motor that was run without oil, leak in the oil pan, when I bought my Jeep, so I had everything to build a new motor for my Jeep. I drilled a hole in my new oil pump, and hole in my block and blocked the hole in the block. I mounted an after market oil filter on the fire wall and ran oil puff hoses from the oil pump to the filter and back to the motor so all the oil got filtered instead of the way it was from the factory. I can now spin the oil filter off without spilling any oil, and replace the filter when I change the oil. The guy I bought the motor off of suggested I do that, seemed like a good idea to me, so all the oil gets filtered, instead of just one part being filtered. Good Luck.

 

I took your recommendation and attempted to straighten the bent LH rocker arm.



It seems to have worked! I can't tell the difference between the two LH arms on this engine.

Thanks.

 

I already poured the MMO into the inlet port. It all went into the valve space, no mess.

I thought removing the rocker shaft and tapping the inlet valves might be my next move.

I also thought I'd remove the bell housing and rotate the flywheel rather than the crankshaft nut. The nut has a torque spec and I'd like not to risk damage the stack of parts under it.

Thanks.

Thanks for this.
First I need to rotate that engine!

 

I always wondered why Jeep used the bypass filter set up. Come to think of it I belive I read somewhere several years ago that the oil filter was an optional accessory at one time. A bypass design would have been easy to add.

 

I pulled off the starter to make sure it's gear wasn't extended and interfering with the flywheel rotation. Nope.

The main power wire between its solenoid and it's motor had cracked and broken insulation. Maybe I can fix it... it's just a wire.

I hoped to test this olive green engine before I pulled any components from my original engine. Several will end up on the green one anyway, if it runs well.

 

Correct. The military one elbows out 90 degrees

 

Some of the early ones had a restriction built in that was latter made larger. There are articles out there that go into all of the details

 

If I had rebuilt my f-134 I would have done the full flow filter. It also allows for an oil cooler or absolutely ginormous oil filter.

 

I disassembled the starter today. It was thoroughly roasted.

And my brother had a flywheel "wrench", if that's the right term. It's a long bar with a "tooth" on a pivot that fits into a gear tooth. I haven't tried it yet but I'm pretty sure you just fit it around the flywheel, engage the tooth and push! I should get plenty of torque hanging a foot off the end of the flywheel.

 

Good luck

 

A "Valve Rocker Cover stud 4-134 F" arrived from KAISER WILLYS today. It doesn't match. My original is about 2-1/8 long, the KW replacement is 1-5/8. My original is fine threads both sides. KW is fine threads on the shorter up side, coarse thread down.



So I thought I'd try to straighten my original Rocker Cover stud. Nope. I cracked it



The MMO has been soaking inside the inlet passages and the combustion chamber for a week. I tried a socket with a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Nope.

And I easily got the bell housing off (all new fasteners!) and tried to turn the flywheel with my brother's tool. Nope. I broke his tool.



The tool is only made for indexing a freely turning flywheel. I think. A few packs with a hammer made the tool good as new.

Then I got a short I-beam and located it close to the flywheel as a pivot point, engaged a flywheel tooth with a long pry bar, and tried to turn it. Nope. It lifted the engine off the pallet despite two ratcheting tie downs.



I guess I should wait (MMO soak) another week!!

Would it make sense to pull the distributor and oil pump to reduce the drag on the crankshaft? It can't be much I imagine.

 

It would definitely be too much if either one was seized...