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engine swap begins

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by lafester, Jun 11, 2005.

  1. Jun 11, 2005
    lafester

    lafester Sponsor

    loveland, co
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    260
    well, after a year of basicly doing nothing to the jeep i am finally going to put in the rebuilt engine i got last spring. i can't remember who sold it to me so if you are still around please feel free to remind me!

    right now i am in the process of swapping over all the parts i am going to keep from the old engine. next up will be installing the hei dist and removing the clutch and flywheel from the new engine. i am hoping to be ready pull the old engine either tonight or tomorrow.

    any tips/tricks or advice is always appreciated since i have never done this before...

    also i have a new toy to play with... i purchased a lincoln hd3200 weld pack from home depot. this version is basicly a hd135 with the gauges and hoses included for the gas setup. i have never welded anything before so it might be a little while before i attempt anything on the jeep. just wanted to thank those who have posted info on these units as it really helped me make up my mind.

    thanks, chris
     
  2. Jun 12, 2005
    lafester

    lafester Sponsor

    loveland, co
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    260
    so i take it you have to completely remove the mounts before you can get the engine out? well i am almost halfway done... just have to remove those mounts and get the old one out of there. i was thinking that you just removed the pin but no....

    chris
     
  3. Jun 12, 2005
    tgregg

    tgregg Member

    Oak Hills, CA...
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Messages:
    529
    I just removed the pins and then just put them back in to reinstall the motor. The secret for me was jacking the trans up so the mounts clear.
     
  4. Jun 12, 2005
    lafester

    lafester Sponsor

    loveland, co
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    260
    i could have done that, but that would have actually been more work since i would have needed to remove the floor section and the tranny mount. it came out pretty easy once i got the mounts off.

    so i did get the engine out at around 12:30 am last night! boy my old mounts are in bad shape... one of them the rubber is completely seperated from the metal frame. the other is pretty close. my new mounts are from checker (advance auto) and they look a little different but all the holes line up so i will use them. i am going to post a few pics here in a minute.

    today should be interesting since it is a lot easier to pull stuff apart then put it together. ;)

    chris
     
  5. Jun 12, 2005
    lafester

    lafester Sponsor

    loveland, co
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    260
  6. Jun 12, 2005
    jnutter

    jnutter New Member

    Minnesota
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2004
    Messages:
    39
    You should try removing the fenders and grill before you remove or replace the motor. It makes life a lot easier. :beer:
     
  7. Jun 12, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2004
    Messages:
    1,745
    yes it does.
     
  8. Jun 12, 2005
    lafester

    lafester Sponsor

    loveland, co
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    260
    you should try posting BEFORE i take the engine out :p

    just kidding of course. i really didn't have any trouble getting it out as is. now getting it back in might prove differently.

    chris
     
  9. Jun 19, 2005
    lafester

    lafester Sponsor

    loveland, co
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    260
    i finally have new engine bolted in!

    i must say that getting it in is a lot harder then getting it out, so i will post a few of the things i learned this week. the big problem is that it is pretty much impossible to line up the engine to the tranny with the mounts either on the engine or pinned to the frame mount. so you can either pull the tranny or try what i did :)

    i left the tranny installed and put the engine in with no mounts. i removed the fuel pump and oil pressure pipe (only necessary if you are going to run an electric oil gage and have the long pipe needed for clearance) so that i could get to the mounts easily later.

    once you get the engine and tranny aligned put in all 6 bolts, tighten to make sure it is straight and then let them back out about an inch. make sure the engine is up high enough to put the mounts in and pull the engine back out to line up the bolt holes. once you get the mounts bolted to the engine, let it back down to line up the frame mount pin on the passenger side. next do the driver side from the back. for me it went in easy on the back side and i had to pound a little to get it through the front. i found out why the pins are pointed. :) i actually had to loosen the engine mount bolts a little to get enough clearance for the pin. then just tighten your engine mount bolts and tighten up the bellhousing bolts and you are set!

    needless to say it took a little trial and error to get it figured out so hopefully this will help others in the future. :p

    next i get to put everything back on the engine and hopefully will get to start it on monday! (got to work tomorrow :mad: )

    chris
     
  10. Jun 19, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    :coffee: :coffee:

    Never an easy job - especially alone!
     
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