Dana 18 Rear Output Bearing Sits Proud And Still Zero Play

Hi all,
I am rebuilding the Dana 18 and I have it all put back together EXCEPT for the rear bearing cap. I cannot get any play out of the shaft to set it within the .004-.006 tolerance and I haven't even put the bearing cap on yet. Based on the amount of grime and oil around the read bearing cap and the e-brake area I don't think the PO could get a good seal and this may be related.

Although there is no end play, the shaft spins easily. I have not torqued the bearing cap down at all yet as I think that will just jam the bearing cap in further but I have at least 1/4 inch space that will need to be filled with shims.

1. Were there different-sized bearing caps manufactured for this transfer case?
2. Anyone have a similar issue when putting a rear bearing cap back on?
3. Does someone with more experience than I do (pretty much anyone who has rebuilt one) know of any tips I might consider?

 

Are you putting shims between the cap and the main housing?

https://thejeepsterman.com/products...EReWpkCfx8_S49yvJ5ZtBmZuhi40pYeRoCyNQQAvD_BwE

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/141102/

 

Stack all the shims you have and place the rear cap. Tighten till you hit 30ft/lbs or the shaft wont spin. Place both yokes front and rear and torque to 120.
That should seat all the bearings where they want to be. Then you can take it back apart and start adjusting shims for proper endplay.
I tried Novaks “whack it with a wooden block” method but couldn’t get any results until I torqued the yokes.

 

yep got so many that it is what caused me to pause and look for answers. Gonna do what Andrew suggested to see if I can get a better fit.

 

Gonna try this next. Thanks for the insight.

 

Any luck? I'm about to start assembling my Dana 18, curious how yours is coming.

 

got it all back apart and reset the shaft and bearings. It naturally sits a little tighter than I expected but I got it within specs. I had no additional room to tighten so I used all 5 of my shims to keep it at .006 end play. I tried the spray-on copper gasket for the shims and thought it would dry up so I could flip them over on the paper towel and spray both sides but I think the heat kept them slightly tackier than I expected.

My teenage son came out to see what I was doing and he insisted I cleanup and repaint the case so before we put it all back together we cleaned and painted that too. Glad we did. Lots of grime over the years.

My idler shaft just had the roller bearings without the cages to hold them. That took a little extra time but I ended up getting it with some extra assembly lube. My biggest problem was the assembly lube liquifying in the heat so fast of my garage here in the Phoenix suburbs. I started to bring it inside to do it at room temperature but on the way in from the garage my wife locked eyes with me and I went back out to the garage. 31 years of marriage didn't require words.

Let me know if you need more specifics on anything.

 

Petroleum Jelly works pretty well to hold those bearings in place. Maybe even put it in the fridge for a spell before applying. It will dissolve in the gear oil and do no harm.

 

Man, that looks like some of the procedures I write..

 

I rebuilt mine about 2 5 years ago. Koyo bearings got it to a real light . 003. After a year of wheeling it was about . 009. Tightened it back up to around . 004 and its held since . Nick said he trys for close to .000 as long as it doesn't lock up on initial setup. They always run in.

 

Interesting.. I have every the shim from the Novak kit plus the ones I took off and had it at about .004. Tacked everything up with copper spray, got it all over the place and it went to .000. Cleaned it all up and starting over. I gotta have about 16 shims on the damn thing.

 

That's a lot. Seems like something's wrong. Mine has maybe 4-5.

 

I agree. I'm kind of at a loss with it. I'm making sure the shims clear the clear the race, so no hang up there. It had many shims before this rebuild also. BTW, these are very thin flimsy shims. Not sure if they come in different thicknesses. Will try again in the morning. I don't think I'll use the copper spray this time, instead I'll try the Permatex Anaerobic gasket maker.

 

Have you fully torqued the yoke/flange nut to make sure the bearing races are fully seated?

 

There are different thickness shims. Mine has a combination.

 

I will try that now. I thought the cap is what seats the race.

 

I have two thick shims, the rest are very thin, .001