Delco Remy Starter Lever/replacement

When I started picking at my engine, I found out I had a bad camshaft. So I decided to wipe down the starter and found that one of the “studs” on the shift lever was worn down and the other was missing! I can’t find a replacement part for the lever, so my inclination is to punt and get a Powermaster 9202 at @Norcal69 has described. Is this the right thought process? I’m not worried about the $150 if I end up with a more reliable starter.

 

Yep, if things are worn enough for this to happen inside your old starter you should just replace the whole assembly.

 

I did the swap to the power master… worth the money in my opinion.

 

I contacted powermaster and they confirmed that the 9202 has the correct bolts and works with a Dauntless 160 tooth flywheel even though it is spec’d to be for a 153 tooth flywheel.

Did you need to use any shims?

Did you use the R terminal? I’m trying to wrap my head around that. I don’t know how it was previously wired. I am replacing my harness with a painless performance GM setup. I replaced my points with a pertronix EI. My impression is that the pertronix EI may eliminate the need for the inline resistor and the R terminal.

 

I’m running it on 160 tooth flywheel with no shims, with no issues. It does come with the shims, but weren’t needed on mine.
I’m running electronic ignition with the Painless wiring harness and did not use the “R” terminal.

 

Thanks! Can’t be much more definitive than that!

 

Did you replace your coil? It looks to me like the coil is what determines whether I need to use the ballast resistor, and that would determine whether I use the “R” terminal. My coil is marked “use with external resistor,” but I could upgrade to a flamethrower if that made it a better system.

 

I’m using the D.U.I. Electronic distributor, built in coil.

 

The external resistor is not the r terminal, just to be clear. I am unaware whether or not the petronix uses a new coil or existing. The r terminal just bypasses resistor during startup.

 

I have been reading up on engine compartment wiring, starters, etc. come and have a better understanding. I appreciate everybody’s help. I’m in the process of installing my new power master 9202 and in the process of determining whether I need any shims, I need to engage the starter gear to measure the gap between gears. The instructions say that you can pry it out using a tool or energize it through the S terminal for no more than 30 seconds. I contacted power master regarding where to ground the starter, and they said that, the starter is grounded directly to the engine by is mounting surfaces as opposed to through a terminal, ground strap, or ground cable. That’s a little different from what it looks like in my wiring harness instructions and from what I read on this forum, however it makes sense as long as I have a clean mounting surface with no paint.

I tried prying the starting your out, but it didn’t go out with a small amount of force, and I do not want to force it. Am I correct in assuming that I can activate the lever by hooking battery positive to the S terminal and battery negative to anywhere on the frame, engine, or starter housing?

Second question is do I need to use Loctite for lock washers on the mounting bolts? Everything I have seen and read, does not use any kind of thread lock or lock nut. edit: I am pretty sure the answer is don't use either because there are special bolts for the starter.

Thanks in advance.