Bds Lift Question

Just put on the bds 2.5 this weekend on my 70 cj5 half the u bolts were wrong size for axle tubes so just got new original. Also where my steering linkage mounted to knuckles the clamps that hold spring pack together was hitting so i had to cut them down.

 

That caster shims help with that problem too.

 

I forgot about that part as I didn't use the front springs. I have seen where someone cut them and welded a plate across them. The shims
will help with clearance in this case. I am not sure if the bent spring clip couldn't go to the front and the bolted clips to the rear.

 

Your front can hit the bump stops?

 

That's what I did with mine.

Folded clamps on the front (pardon the dirt. I really need to wash the thing):


Bolted clamps on the rear. I flipped this bolt around with the nut to the inside because it's the first thing the tires hit at full lock. You can see the polish on the bolt head:


It seems to work fine. You could make some argument that the stiffer side of the spring should be on the non-shackle end. I'm sure you can also make arguments for the other direction too.

Only fully flexed. They never hit in normal driving. The XJ bump stops end up about 2" above the front axle in my configuration. You can see the witness marks on the axle, u-bolt, and bump stop here:


They do touch occasionally! The rears have never been close. The shocks probably bottom out before the rear bump stops get anywhere near the axle.

 

It must be the V8! I ended up using carriage bolts and ground off the sharp edges of the clamp to have something that would not grab. Thanks for more pictures!

 

At 450lbs for the Buick 350, it's actually 20lbs lighter than an F-134. It is 50lbs heavier than the 225 it replaced though. Pretty similar to a 225 with a winch.

 

Rear pumpkin is off-ceneter to the right. I beleve my front end is a D27. My local napa has the correct ubolts in stock so I'll scoop those prior to install so I don't have to mess with the spring plate.

Doesn't it defeat the purpose of havng the bump stops in the rear if the shock bottoms out? Isn't that part of the prupose of the bump stop? XJ stops are a great idea!


I went head and ordered 4deg shims from WFO to start with. If I decide to change the front shackles depending on stance after the lift than I'll revise accordingly. I'd love to also referesh the body mounts at some point so there will be more changes I'm sure.

 

Yes. I was kind of sarcastically pointing out my effort on the rear bump stops was for nothing. As for the shocks, it's not clear they would bottom out first or not. They are at such an angle they don't travel nearly as much as the suspension does. In practice, I've never bottomed out the rear end in the two years these springs have been on the Jeep, so I'm not sure they matter much in the back. At least the XJ bump stops and 2.5" lift still give about the same travel before hitting as stock.

I found some more pictures in my archives. Here's the front bumps flexed out:


Here's the rear, There is still a little over an inch of clearance at full flex. I suppose I should make some spacers for the rear bumps some day.

 

Pumpkin off-center...do have a Dana 18 or 20 transfer-case? The rear drive shaft would have less angularity with the 18. The 18 transfer-case has both drive shafts inline.

 

Just took another look and I believe its a dana 18. Prior owner must have noted it incorrectly (and I never double checked ha!), which would jive with the offset rear pumpkin.

 

OK - so I got the passenger rear going on this project and as predicted, the U bolts are incorrect. I went to napa and it was $137 for just the 4 rear u bolts alone - which seems totally insane. I purchased 650-4003 which seemed to be the right width/radius in 1/2"(which matches stock).

While I haven't even gotten to the front, I'm concerned to have to possibly drop over $200 in UBolts. This seems pretty silly - what am I missing here?

 

Sadly we don't have many shops in the town that I live in. I was also hoping for 8-10$/ea, not what NAPA was charging.

 

I paid $80 for 4 at the local spring shop last month, and those guys know me (in fact have tried to hire me on multiple occasions)

 

Not sure what part of Washington you are located in but, if you are anywhere near Yakima, go to the White front store on 1st Ave. They will make what you need while you stand there.

 

The u-bolt you show from NAPA is listed at 2 7/8". Your flanged axle should be 2 3/4". I would call and have them send the 2 3/4" u-bolts. The front will be for a Dana27
3@ 2 1/4 and 1@ 2 7/8" as the Rancho kit I listed before Rancho RS714. The u-bolts I received was 5@ 2 3/4" and 3@ 2 1/2". They do not list 2 1/4" u-bolts or 2 7/8'
though the 2 3/4" are slightly oversize. I called and they shipped 1@ 2 1/2" and 1 @ 2 3/4" and were quick. Here is the link to what is offered. Ordered RS714 from the Amazon.
https://bds-suspension.com/product-display.php Look under universal and then u-bolts.

 

my rear isn't flanged - all 4 u bolts are the same size. 1/2" and roughly 2 7/8 or 2 2/34 (but 7/8 fits in the plate)

the front does have a flange, and when i looked quick I think they are all 7/16" (BDS sent me all 1/2" u bolts).

At this point I'm considering just modifying the plates to make it work. Is there any issue with running a slightly too wide u bolt? It seems like minimal risk to me as the clamping force is top/bottom so the width shouldn't be too big of a problem when torqued.

 

Can you just run a die on originals and re-use?

 

I guess so, but isn’t it generally not advised to reuse them as they stretch and weaken?