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1968 V6 Exhaust System

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by UncleTee, Oct 27, 2022.

  1. Oct 27, 2022
    UncleTee

    UncleTee New Member

    Schenectady, NY
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2022
    Messages:
    1
    First post looking for help on my ’68 CJ5 that I picked up recently. The CJ5 was sold as part of an estate and the sisters that I bought it from estimate that it has been at least 20 years, possible 30 years since it has run.

    To start with I pulled the valve covers and rocker arm assemblies and checked that all the valves were free. Worked with one sticky one and got it freed up.

    With everything put back together, I tried to start the Jeep. Took a bit to find the right combination of choke and throttle, but it finally started. When running I noticed a loud ticking sound coming from the passenger side, like what I have heard from an exhaust port leak. I shut it down fairly quickly because I did not want to do more damage if it was not just an exhaust leak.

    I eventually pulled the passenger side head to check the valves and the pistons. They all looked good. When removing the head, I did not remove the exhaust manifold because I did not want to deal with broken bolts. I disconnected the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe and removed manifold and head together. That is when I saw the exhaust heat valve (learned that from more research here). Looking at the heat valve, it looked like the gasket was blown out and may have been the source of the ticking. I pried the heat valve out of the exhaust pipe and now my exhaust valve is in 2 pieces. Looking at the end of the exhaust manifold, it seems very thin (right hand side of picture) Problem #1
    I also noticed the “air tubes”? in the head near the exhaust port. I read a post about these where the member was trying to install plugs. One of the tubes on the driver side is completely open. The other two look like they were cut and crimped. All three tubes on the passenger side look to have been cut and crimped, however one of them did not get fully crimped. Problem #2.
    When considering “fixes” to these problems, understand that I am just trying to get the Jeep running and driving to make sure the driveline is healthy. So for problem #1, I am considering removing what remains of the damper and JB weld the two pieces back together. A forum post mentions a Crown replacement, but would prefer to not spend that much and it doesn’t appear that the heat valve was doing anything anyway. Does anyone have any suggestions for an inexpensive temporary, or permanent fix for replacing the heat valve? Anyone have one that I can clean up and use as a spacer?

    For problem #2, can I just make sure the ports are crimped tight? On the port that is open, can I just find something to plug it for now?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
     
  2. Oct 27, 2022
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2010
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    7,173
    The heat riser valve on mine was stuck...I just took it out and was able to reconnect the pipe directly to the manifold.
    My CJ is a '70, I think it's the same as your '68.
     
    melvinm likes this.
  3. Oct 27, 2022
    dnb71R2

    dnb71R2 SuperDave 2023 Sponsor

    Grand Mesa, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2006
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    1,362
    The heat riser was an emission control. Mine has been gone for over 10 years and it runs fine.
    Those small tubes are air injection tubes, again an emission control. Pinch them closed and you should be fine. A plug would be a more secure solution, though.
     
  4. Oct 27, 2022
    Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Silver Hill,...
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    The heat riser was used to get the Carb warmed quicker on cold startup.
     
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  5. Oct 27, 2022
    Bondo

    Bondo Master General Re-Engineer,...

    Greenfield Me.
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    Dec 17, 2021
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    89
    Ayuh,..... JB Weld is good stuff, but it will not take the exhaust heat,....
     
  6. Oct 28, 2022
    Fresbone

    Fresbone Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Fresno, California
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    Jul 29, 2022
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  7. Oct 29, 2022
    amboynut

    amboynut Member

    Chelatchie, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2021
    Messages:
    317
    I don't know about the Dauntless, but on some engines the AIR fittings have M14-1.25 threads, same as a spark plug. So you may be able to use spark plugs to plug the holes. Looks really cool too!
     
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