Help! How To Get Damaged Seal Out Of Rear D18

I tried the tricks from the forum (self drill sheel metal screw & screw driver to pry out) but no luck. I then tried a slide hammer, but it just started to shread the outer lip. This looks like one of those seals with metal jackets both inside & out. What can I ry next so I don't gouge the output housing?

 

Medium size regular ViseGrip. Grab your mutilated lip and lever it out. Not exactly cheap, but if more of there are in your future, I have found nothing that works as well as Joe DeYoung's seal removal tool (#28).
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/joe-deyoungs-tools-and-parts-listing_topic48402.html

 

Take a screwdriver you hate of sufficient size, a hammer and pound that screwdriver through the seal housing as close to the D18 as you can. Pry, then do the same on the other side until its out.

Brute force and ignorance.

 

They can be a real PIA to get out sometimes, but don't worry too much about scratching the housing, try not to, but if you do just smear on some sealant before you drive in the new seal.

A screwdriver will work, but I have a small chisel I use to cut through the rim of the seal then drive it in between that and the housing. That usually collapses the seal and it can be pulled out.

 

Thanks for the suggestions above, I will try again tomorrow & try to keep damage to a minimum.

 

Would it help to remove the housing and drive the seal out from the other side? Prolly have to replace the gasket.

Hijack Alert!! I see you still have an intact parking brake stud. Mine is gone, along with a chunk of the housing. Anybody have a spare you're willing to part with?

 

my seal tools

 

I have a bicycle (I guess) tire spoon that is about 8" long. It's like a small pry bar without sharp edges. Kind of like what is pictured but with a 30 degree angle

 

Post a WTB in the classifieds, I think most of us have a spare (or 2 or 3 or 4) D18 tcase sitting around.

 

guess I should have included a hammer in picture

 

Success! I finally got the seal out - small chisel, seversl sizes of screw drivers, pry bar, heat & brut force. A few nicks & scratches in the housing, some that may have been there before? There was some kind of red coating on the outside of the seal. Maybe an adheasive?

Oldpappy, you said to spread some sealant on before driving the new seal. RTV seems that it is too thick. What woulf you recommend?

Thanks all

 

I use Permatex #2 on most things, but lately I have tried Permatex "The Right Stuff" and like it pretty well, it is the closest I will get to RTV.

For a seal like that I would probably use the #2.

 

I stopped by a transmission repair shop and asked them about removing/installing the seals. They said that they always use "green Loctite" on seals when installing them. Would this be advisable or make it difficult to remove them again in the future?

 

I got some Permatex 2 but it seams too thick to stay underneath a pressed in seal. Can it be thinned to a more liquid state?

 

Just smear it around the inside of the housing and tap in the seal, then put some oil on your finger and wet the lip of the seal.

Had not thought of using green Locktite but that may be a good idea.

 

Check your yoke too. If there is a groove from the old seal be sure to fix it with a speedi-sleeve or new yoke. Some permatex #2 on the spline, nut, washer will prevent oil leaks via the shaft. Just a little dab’ell do ya. Dont glue parts together.

 

I must have copied yours. I made mine from a piece of rebar. Grind the tip down just right. Slip it in and pull with two hands.

 

That Mac S120P is still available new. There is also a S120SP short puller that looks similar but does not have the handle, and is ... shorter.

 

I have had to chisel them out an 1/8" piece at a time. The seal can basically rust to the housing and become one piece.