68 Cj5 Holley Super Sniper Tbi 2gc Or Howell Tbi

As I said in the video I don't haven't got the idle dialed in yet , the system is still learning and it take some time to fine tune it.

Another point I forgot to say is ....... Have your HEI Distributor installed and dialed in before installing this system

 

Thanks for the info. I bought this distributor from top street performance, and I haven’t installed it yet, but once I do I can’t return it so I’m nervous...
Buick Odd Fire V6 HEI Distributor

 

Hey Truckee the one from Southwest was the correct distributor for $129 - the one in the picture from eBay was not the right one !
I just checked out Top Performance website - That looks like the correct one to me..... it has the 2 extra/unused post on the cap ... Best of luck

 

Any updates on how the idle is coming?

 

I'd love to hear an update on how the Sniper system and if Howard has made any progress on his box. I'm very interested in converting to EFI!

 

The crank sensor I installed was nearly as simple as the entire fuel injection project and it runs perfect.
No special tools are needed to make the nodes or sensor bracket. Just parts and a welder.
I even yanked out the big, bulky HEI distributor and went back to my old Pertronix/delco setup.
Back to back testing yielded no noticeable difference in power or throttle response between the two ignition systems.

 

I'm not opposed to making a crank sensor bracket. I'll go back thru this thread and look at the photos and start a parts list. Thanks

 

After reading Norcal's thread on the Howell nightmare, I don't think I'll be going that route. It seems to me that the Sniper 2GC or 2300 kit, with a crank trigger of some sort is the way to go. A few thoughts on a crank trigger:

• Measure a 225 harmonic balancer and draft up a 3 trigger ring that would bolt to the rear of the harmonic balancer. This ring could be 2 piece thus not requiring the removal of the balancer to install. Would require some fancy CNC work to make. Use the 2012 Corvette crank sensor.
• Turn a pocket in the center of a bolt and then epoxy in a small magnetic. Use a magnetic hall effect sensor such as the Holley 554-118. Install bolts in harmonic balancer.
• Use fuel pump block off plate as template and draft up a mounting bracket. 3D print test model to fit. Export to .dxf and have made out of aluminum.

Am I on the right track with the crank trigger ideas? Seems like the second idea would be the easiest for those with a lathe and should not require any mill work to make the triggers to the same height.

 

Your way overthinking this......
No mill is required to level the nodes. Just clamp them in a vise and hit em with a flat file across the face till they all hit.
Holley offers a signal to use with magnet nodes and one for plain steel nodes.
Bolt your nodes through the balancer and go

 

You are right, I was way overthinking this! I plan to tackle this sometime later this summer.....

 

So going to add to this mess. I had an email out to Holley when I discovered this thread, clearly stating that i have a 225 oddfire and their tech has responded that it would work for not timing controlled cases. The email received is as follows:

" Thank you for contacting Holley. The only thing you would be getting from the ignition side would be a tach/rpm signal from the negative side of the coil. This will be a non timing controlled set up with the factory points style distributor. The unit it self will work on the engine as long as it can bolt to the intake and under the 350HP mark. Thanks, Devin"

So as far as this tech is concerned the crank trigger is unnecessary, and the points tach signal off the coil would be enough for the ecm to get the rpm reliably enough to use the 2GC Small bore kit.

 

My email conversation with Holley Tech was different. The tech that I was talking to said the Sniper would not work with the odd-fire unless you put a crank trigger on it. I can not find the email thread. This is the reason I went with the FiTech EFI

 

So basically even within Holley there seems to be confusion. But we know it works with an hei and as far as I know the hei doesn't rectify the odd spacing of the tach signal. So I'm not seeing why it wouldn't work. Other than we still seem to get different answers from Holley each week on the same question.

 

Warlock - so that adds to the confusion for me given in December they say it won't and now it's July and they say that it will and have added comparability for the 67 Buick skylark with the same motor to the applications for the sniper 2GC part numbers.



As I only initially added the reply from holley, here is the full email from them.

"Thank you for contacting Holley. The only thing you would be getting from the ignition side would be a tach/rpm signal from the negative side of the coil. This will be a non timing controlled set up with the factory points style distributor. The unit it self will work on the engine as long as it can bolt to the intake and under the 350HP mark.
Thanks,
Devin


Your Question Was:

Looking at buying the Sniper EFI 2GC Small Bore, But there seems to be a lot of conflicting information floating around the jeep forums on whether it works or not. Your website does not list it for the 69 cj5 but lists that it works with a 67 Buick skylark. The 67 skylark is the exact same motor that the 69 cj5''s have (being of the odd fire variety). Everywhere I have read that these sniper systems don''t work with the odd fire signals from the coils of these engines, but yet you show compatibility with the 67 225/3.7.

Will this work for my application or not?"

 

Talking to different members on the Forum about EFI. When doing a EFI conversion you are adding a computer controlled carburetor which is the TB. It reads the exhaust gasses thru the Oxygen Sensor. Then the CMU adjust the fuel air mixture. How the RPM of the engine is processed thru CMU and what that does to fuel air mixture I do not understand.

I think in the big picture on this. Guys have the odd-fire engine that runs like crap with the 2G. The engine is now running way better with the EFI, yet not perfect but better than the engine was with the 2G and the owner is very happy I am in this boat. I install the FiTech EFI. What little I have ran it there was a 100% improvement over the 2G. There are some issues I need to address but will not do that till this fall because of life.

 

Man if I could just get some progress made on my body repairs I could get to wiring and plumbing up my Sniper and testing it out.

 

I have been looking into this eft and read this entire forum. The only difference is my odd fire has an offy 360 intake with a Holley 390 cfm 4160 carb with electric choke and a DUI distributor. So my questions are, would the 4bbl efi work with my set up? I too am having issues with timing light because i can’t get a reading. What is the timing supposed to be at? My engine to the sound is pretty good but don’t know if it’s just right. I read TDC and I read 10d degrees as well. Been thinking of the efi because cold starts suck and I’m constantly tweeting the carb.

 

so - it would probably be a good idea to start the engine with the carb back in lance to get a new distributor and the timing dialed in first?