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Can Someone Confirm This Is The Right Fuel Pump?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Henri Watson, Oct 20, 2020.

  1. Oct 20, 2020
    Henri Watson

    Henri Watson Member

    Mississippi
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    I'm pretty sure this is the correct pump for my dauntless (OMIX Part #17709.17) but some of the online sites are giving me the "does not fit" message. I don't believe them so I bought it anyway but I just wanted to confirm with you all. I know I should have the 3 line system as shown in the service manual, but online sites keep directing me to the 2 line pumps.

    This is what I ordered

    Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
     
  2. Oct 20, 2020
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I would be surprised if a fuel pump for a factory-installed 1966 225 V6 has a fuel return line.

    Popular sentiment suggests you avoid Omix-Ada parts, if possible. I would get the Carter shown here.
    1966 JEEP CJ5 3.7L 225cid V6 Fuel Pump | RockAuto
     
  3. Oct 20, 2020
    Henri Watson

    Henri Watson Member

    Mississippi
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    Hmm okay, the one I used to have on there had a return line, maybe the PO had it wrong? The FSM shows a 3 line pump for the V6:
     

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  4. Oct 20, 2020
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    "I would be surprised..." but I won't say for certain. 1966 is quite early for fuel return, in my experience.

    That TSM covers more years than just 1966. Maybe someone here with access to a factory parts book can say for sure.

    If you want one with a return line, look at the listing for a newer year.
    1970 JEEP CJ5 3.7L 225cid V6 Fuel Pump | RockAuto

    There's nothing wrong with having a return line, if it's plumbed correctly. I would expect the factory would use a steel line for return, not rubber. You should be able to tell if the pump uses factory plumbing by the lines. Long rubber fuel lines are not safe. If you have a rubber return line, I would suspect that a PO added it.

    I would not buy an Omix part. That's just me.
     
  5. Oct 20, 2020
    Henri Watson

    Henri Watson Member

    Mississippi
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    Thanks, I'll keep shopping in that case. Really not sure which way to go. The return line is steel, I disconnected it when I switched to an electric pump but now I want to do the electric in line with a mechanical. I've never had a problem with vapor lock or anything so maybe it would be fine to get a higher quality 2-line fuel pump and just keep the return line disconnected.
     
  6. Oct 20, 2020
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    I don't see the point of having both pumps.
     
  7. Oct 20, 2020
    Henri Watson

    Henri Watson Member

    Mississippi
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    I like having the electric pump as a primer pump hooked to a switch. When my jeep sits for a while I can lose prime. I just want to hook it to a switch and use it to prime before starting then turn it off.
     
  8. Oct 20, 2020
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Yes, but if you have the electric pump, why do you need the mechanical pump?
     
  9. Oct 20, 2020
    Henri Watson

    Henri Watson Member

    Mississippi
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    Just paranoia. I'm just afraid it'll go out on me one day. It's in a hard place to wash and it basically stays caked in mud all year. I'd rather rely on a mechanical pump and have the electric as a convenience.
     
  10. Oct 20, 2020
    SoCalNickG

    SoCalNickG Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Whittier, CA.
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    My 1971 CJ5, with the rear tank, has a return line. The fuel pump has three ports. I do not know if the fuel pump changed before the rear tanks happened.
    OP- Do you have the underseat tank? Has a rear tank been installed?
     
  11. Oct 20, 2020
    Henri Watson

    Henri Watson Member

    Mississippi
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    I have an under seat tank
     
  12. Oct 20, 2020
    RATTYFLATTY

    RATTYFLATTY I think you need a little more throttle

    Central MN
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    I've been running a return line style mechanical pump for about 5 years now with the return line plugged with no issues, for what it's worth.
     
    Henri Watson and jpflat2a like this.
  13. Oct 20, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Note the main fittings are completely different between the 2 port and 3 port pumps. The 2 port pumps have horizontal inlet and outlet fittings with a 1/8" female pipe threads. The 3 port pumps have a hose-barb vertical inlet and a horizontal flare fitting output (3/8" I think).

    I found this out because my '68 (titled as a '69) does not have a tank return, but it has a newer odd-fire 231 and a 3-port pump with the return port capped. I ordered a non-return pump for it (in an attempt to simplify) and found out I would need to redo the incoming and outgoing lines to make it work. I ended up getting another 3-port pump and capping the line again. In the interest of ease, you should match whatever pump you already have.

    I would stay away from Omix stuff. I got a quality Delphi pump from Rock Auto, but it looks like they're out of stock now: More Information for DELPHI MF0151

    They do have a GMB that's probably decent quality: More Information for GMB 5308430
     
  14. Oct 20, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Roy - since you have the 3 port pump - if you wanted you could go with a pick-up for the underseat tank with the fuel return line.....
    Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1967-70 V6 CJ5, CJ6-948696

    I get that a lot of people have run mechanical set-ups without a return line for a very long time with no issues....but I don't really see the reason to NOT run a return, and I think they can be helpful in high temp, high elevation conditions where vapor lock is more likely. Just me...but I've fought vapor lock on both my cj and the q-jet in the willys, and its just an annoying PITA. There are lots of solutions to vapor lock that don't require a return line, but it does seem like an easy and functional solution that has minimal downside
     
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  15. Oct 20, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I've thought about it, but I would have to swap the tank. Mine has 6 vertical screws holding the sender in like this one: Sending Unit Fuel Tank With Brass Float 6 Screw Type CJ3B, C

    Given that it's a late '68, it *should* have a return style system, but it doesn't and everything looks original.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  16. Oct 20, 2020
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    20201020_141118.jpg 20201020_141049.jpg

    A couple pages from my parts book, for reference.
     
  17. Oct 20, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    My '66 w/Dauntless has only 2 fittings on the fuel pump; in from tank, out to carb. I would never consider an Omix fuel pump due to questionable quality. A good mechanical fuel pump will prime the carb with about 2-3 revolutions of the engine, no electric pump necessary. Keep it simple.
    -Donny
     
  18. Oct 21, 2020
    Henri Watson

    Henri Watson Member

    Mississippi
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    Yeah I'm sure I would have been just fine with a 2 hose pump especially since the electric one I've been using hasn't had any issues. Oh well. I ordered a better quality pump from rock auto and will return the omix, thanks for the warnings. If it primes well I may remove the electric one day, but for now a simple switch added to the wire will have me a fancy little primer.
     
  19. Oct 21, 2020
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    With the mechanical pump having to suck fuel through the electric pump first wouldn't that make it harder on the mechanical pump?
     
  20. Oct 21, 2020
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Maybe. AFAIK there are electric pumps that can be used in this way, but not all.
     
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