2 brake questions...

1) What size wrench do I need for the bleeder screws on the 10" brakes?

2) and don't laugh - what is the easiest way to remove the filler cap of the master cyl. ? My hands don't fit through the hole in the floor

 

#1 - don't know offhand #2 - I use a socket that fits the cap ''15/16?? Crack it loose and then spin it off with your fingers....... You can also loosen it that way and reach up from underneath ( this is assuming you have single m/c) I use a long funnel and fill through the engine compartment, can't see or move close enough through that little hole in the floor to get it in without slopping it all over. Remote resevior like Vernco built is on the list to do.

 

should be 1/4" wrench. spray lots of wd-40 (or whatever you use) on the screw. IF it won't move, remove the wheel clynder and get a new one. before installing it, use a liberal amount of neversieze on the threads.

 

Roger the 1/4" on the bleeder. You may want to get a special wrench for that. Like flare nut wrench. I have a neat little bleeder wrench made by K-D tools part number 291. It is a boxed end with bends for easy access. 1/4 on one end, 3/8 on the other. They can strip very easily then you are looking at a brake rebuild.
If your mc cap has a hex cap, IIRC its 15/16 as stated above. I use a long extention with a U joint to reach it from above.

 

When replacing my floors, I covered up my access hole. I now get to the master cylinder from under the hood.

 

Thanks guys.

I think I have a square cap, not hex head for the 15/16 on the mc. I'll check tonight.

The brakes are still on the bench, so I can break the bleeders loose there before I put them on.

 

I have 9" and 11" brakes, both mine are 3/8"... I guess the 10's are different. Make sure you use lots of penetrating oil and a 6 point socket to get the bleeders broke loose. Be careful not to round them off which happens very easily...not that I know

 

mine has a square cap. takes 1" wrench.

 

How do you get you r hand in there with a wrench?

 

I'll mess with it again tonight. Thanks guys

 

I usually loosen the top on the MC from under the hood with a pair of channel lock pliers. Then stick (actually squeeze and skinning knuckles) my big ol hand through the hole in the floorboard to finish taking the top off with two fingers. Then like the above post mentioned, I use a long funnel to fill it. Frankly it is a pain.

Then repeat the process in reverse by taking off a bit more hide off my hand and this time I will somehow rub some of the spilled brake fluid from the side of the hole into the recently raw skinned place that now burns like all get out! (Just think, if you were this cruel to a dog or cat, you would be arrested.)

While I really don’t cuss, some folks have said jeeps are a good at learning the art of cussing. I think this must be one of those little routine jobs that enhance our cussing abilities.

 

When I have had to get to mine, I just pull the whole trans cover out entirely, I can then get a good view and get a hand right onto the MC.

 

I took an 8" piece of 3/8 SS tubing and shoved it throught the spout of a small plastic funnel extending it to reach. one of those small funnels with a section of plastic hose will work as well...

 

I looked at it again last night. NO WAY to get to it throught the engine compartment. The steering shaft is on top of it. I'll crawl underneath it tonight and see if I can get it that way.

 

when i repaired the floor, i made a larger hole to access the master cylinder.

 

I have a fiberglass body and don't have an access hole in the floor. I can reach mine if I reach up under the rear of the front fender just in front of the firewall. I have about an 1 1/2" body lift though, so that may help me a bit.
Is there a convenient small child that could reach through the access hole to take the cover off?