MD Juan Tub Kit 1969 CJ5 4CLY (7/2016)

Thanks for the lightning fast feed back, Twin2.

 

Possibly use on offset dryer vent piece to get by the heater hoses?

 

Here is an update on our build:



As predicted, we needed the right fender and grill installed to support wiring components.
We needed an accurate location of everything to determine final wiring harness lengths. The harnesses were about 85% finished before we started this phase. We left them long where they join together so several terminals are going in. Also, my wiring photo documentation wasn't the greatest, so we are doing a lot of ...err... "re-determination" of each wire's function.

You can see Joe's gotten pretty far in a day!

Meanwhile, I'm still slugging away on the dash:



Several gaps were filled in today; I should wrap up the dash on Wednesday.

I added a hitch ball to the draw bar assembly to confirm that it does not interfere with the pintle hook. It does not interfere.

Before starting we went to KINKO's to blow up a wiring diagram for hanging next to the wiring bench. That has helped us continuously. But... if I had it to do again, i'd get one done in color!!!!

We will be wiring the rest of the this week (Wed/Fri) and perhaps wrapping up wiring next Monday. After that, we'll address the new heater air inlet question, fix the engine coolant leak and the remaining rocker cover oil leak, and then install the windshield, hood, floor cover pans, seats, missing hardware, mirrors, etc, etc.

We still have to test the engine, adjust the carburetor and timing, and road test (!!!!) the brakes.

Lots more Jeep fun ahead before we start on the trailer!

 

I'll have to take a look at that!

I'll want to get as close to a stock look as I can and i'm not afraid to (...have Joe... ) fab an enclosure if I must.

I also have a shot at a Jeep heater box without a core which might work.

So... Lots of good options.

Thanks for thinking with us about a good solution.

 

Getting that heater inside up under the dash reheating already heated air makes for a much more efficient system as compared to heating cold outside air all the time.

 

Thanks, Tarry99 for joining in.

Yea, we also thought that sounds logical and makes good sense. We actually wanted it inside and tried to find a place under the dash to put it by reinstalling the dash and moving the Summitt heater around to as many places and orientations as we could think of. But in the end it always seemed to either get in the way or stick out too much for out tastes. And we didn't want to give up the glove box, which would have provided more room.

And the Summitt heater had a reputation on line of throwing a LOT of heat in comparison to the stock heater. Hopefully that is true.

And it fit so sweetly in that open space on the firewall... it blinded us to the intake air quality issue. We thought we were being clever... maybe not so clever now.

And then there is the other thing... the funny thing.... I"m putting a heater in a (usually) open Jeep... in Western Pennsylvania... and expecting to ride it around in cold weather... really?

Yes I have a bikini top, and a soft stock Whitco top with fabric doors, and BIG plans to sew my own military style soft top... But the one soft top Jeep CJ ride I ever took in cold weather did not make me think I'd get much improvement recirculating inside air

To be brutally open about this... if I can just throw enough heat on my wife's ankles to encourage her to take a second ride with me in cool weather I win! Any more heat than that is pure bonus. Oh, yea... that, and not always needing a scraper to clear the inside of the windshield would be nice (I'm an experienced former VW Bug owner... with driver and passenger scrapers).

Now... how to stylishly(?) get the hot air to her ankles... hmmmmm. Maybe better if I can get her ankles to the hot air!

 

x2,and there shouldn't be an issue of enough fresh air.....if the air inlet could be on the drivers side, would be the best for trying to get the air hose hooked up.The stock heater has a sheetmetall cover with a tapered end for the air inlet hose ,maybe you could make a cover that would resemble that,after all you guys are coming to the end(?) of this project and will need to wean off gradually .

 

Not so gradual. We will be starting the trailer right after this Jeep is finished. We will do a thread on that also.... keep watching for the Jim and Joe retired adventure time...

 

I have a 66 with drawbar and factory installed pintle I'll have to get a pic and maybe measurements for you.

 

You're right...........and for years my wife and I both suffered in a cold tin can Jeep................Hanging that heater inside under the dash is a far better option to allow for reheating already heated air even in an open or semi-closed or soft top enviroment. The area is small and it will heat up quickly.......The key in all these systems for any early Jeep is to somehow get the heat and defrost air to where you really need it...................take a look at what I did to a Summit heater in my old CJ5..........Making my CJ-5 into a CJ-6 / II. Not to say you should build what I did but at least it will give you some Ideas.

With your talent , I'm sure that you can come up with something.

 

Boy did you hit that square on the head

I was anticipating the project's end in about 6 weeks when Joe said, "let's convert the old tub into a matching trailer!" I was SO glad ...and he was even more excited than me.

{editorial note 11/2/2021: Cooler heads prevailed and Joe inserted a few more projects onto the list until the trailer became an, "oh, yea... we did talk about that once" kind of project. In the mean time, Joe bought and re-finished his own 1974 Jeep Universal, rebuilt a Ford (?) truck, 99% completed his 1933 Pontiac, and is currently rebuilding a 1968 VW convertible... and I probably left something out but you get the picture...}

Someone offered me a stock heater enclosure which will be round one in resolving the fresh air issue. We did install it on the driver's side, so that's a straight shot to the grill cut out.

 

Thanks, it will be great to get a "stock" example.

 

Very cool... err... warm!
You've given us some nice stuff.
But I have to be careful showing Joe... if he gets to the end of your post he'll want to turn our cj5 into a cj6!!! Yikes!

 

Today was not supposed to be a "JEEP day", but I got my "honey-do" home project done early and the second "honey-do" took me over half way to TechShop where they happen to have industrial "walking foot" sewing machines.

The PO didn't remove or mask the seat belts when he painted the Jeep Presidential Red... so yep, my seat belts were mostly red on one side, and mostly black on the other.





For a time I thought to update the seats (head restraint) and seat belts (3 point) but the more I got into the project, the less I wanted to deviate from stock, so I decided to repair my stock seat belts.

They looked pretty crappy, but all the springs still worked. I cut off all the webbing but saved it as a pattern. I was able to wire brush away all the rust from all the parts with (mostly) good results. I painted all the steel parts and just buffed the plated parts.

I got a nearly new set of black 3 point seat belts off a wrecked VW Jetta with a web width and thickness identical to my original. I pulled them out of their take-up reel, cut them off, and discarded all their hardware.

Then I scheduled an hour at TechShop at 4:00 today, grabbed my borrowed spool of industrial weight outdoor black thread (my brother Dan owns an auto reupsholstery shop), and made my way over to TechShop.

Unfortunately one hour turned into 5 (!) hours... sewing machine trouble... grrrr.... but I was able to get them done.

Staging for sewing and assembly:



All done:



Not too shabby! Ready for installation.

Yep, I caught that the spring take up reels are installed in opposite directions... but after fighting with that machine all night, i'm just happy they are "finished". Actually, the belt can be slipped out of the two belt retaining tabs on the take up reel and spun around, and reattached to the opposite side. As they say in Jamaca... "No problem, man".

I matched the original stitch and pattern exactly. No worries about strength.

I hope Joe doesn't ask me why they aren't Haze Grey! (Mostly because the seats are ...currently... black.)

 

Nice job on the belts.

 

Wednesday "JEEP DAY" progress report...

I continued bludgeoning away on the dash wiring today and modified my approach. Up until now I tried to piece information from 4 sources at the same time, two of which were my lousy photos in two different places.

Here is the rats' nest I started with (looking down through the steering wheel). This is what was up behind the dash.



We've come a long way, baby.

My big break today was to find a better color wiring diagram on earlyCJ5.com. Instead of trying to duplicate what I captured in my (sketchy) photos, I switched to finishing the dash wiring one external harness section at a time... first rear lights, then the engine pyramid connector, then the front lights, then the horn... etc, etc. Before I was taking too large a bite out of the elephant and I was choking.

I've got it all ready to go but the turn signal. Yea, I know... I saved the best for last.

Joe finished the front headlamps and parking/turn signal lights today before we installed the steering column, so he could start working on the horn button.

I think our horns might be either aftermarket, or from a different JEEP. The parts book shows just one horn for 1969 and shows an electrically insulated horn that gets AUX power on one terminal and then grounds through a second terminal to the horn button.

Our Jeep has two horns that are ground internally to the fender. They get power through a NO (Normally Open) relay that gets AUX power and is grounded through the horn switch to close it and power the horns. But we think the relay may be a bandaid added by the PO rather than properly repair the steering wheel mounted horn.

Then he installed the speedometer cable.

Then he worked on the back-up light harness.

When reinstalling the transmission, we had tested the back-up light switch which has about 20% - 25% of a steel ball sticking out of the bottom of a screw-in housing. A rod in the transmission gets shoved under the ball when you shift into reverse, causing the ball to depress back into the housing and closes some internal contacts. That sends power to the back-up lights which are grounded by their housings to the body.

Back then, when we tested our back up switch it didn't work when installed, even after thoroughly cleaning it, but it would operate in your hand. I noticed the push rod in the transmission was a bit loose, so I wasn't positive the problem was just with the switch. So we ground off a layer of steel on the contacting face of the switch body to push it tighter against the pushrod, and it worked great! But Joe just let me know it isn't working again. I had a bear of a time finding the right back-up switch last time I looked. There are lots of identical looking switches available... but which is the right one?

Friday we should get the turn signal wiring done and the dash installed and the dash external harnesses pointed in the right direction. We'll likely need all of next Monday to finish all connections and test everything.

P.S. I corrected the positions of the spring-wound take-up reels on the seat belts and Joe installed them on the JEEP. Our bolt was a bit bigger than original so he had to drill out the attachment bracket holes just a bit... 3 drill bits, grinding, and an hour later, he was done. Wow, are those mounting brackets hard!!!

 

Oh, yes... A bit of an electrical issue...

(1) My wiring diagram shows 2x flasher relays, one for turn signals, one for the four way. But, the turn signal switch on the column has a 4 way switch built in to it, and... there is a second 4 way flasher switch already mounted on the dash...aftermarket, I think, since it is displaced below the straight line of all other controls.



I'm going to guess the column mount 4way switch failed and that function was filled by the added switch by a PO. BUT I can't find a second flasher relay in my dwindling tray of electrical parts, so I cannot confirm there ever was one. My photos don't show a second flasher relay, but I barely tried to recognize the function of everything in that original rats nest under the dash. I just threw up my hands and just figured I'd grab a wiring diagram to decipher it later.

Very early in the build someone (greenshirt82) on this site let me know that my turn signal switch was not stock. So it might not match the stock wiring diagram.



I always assumed that the built-in 4 way switch in my column mount turn signal assembly would use the same turn signal flasher relay for the 4way flasher function.

Can anyone tell me, in the 1969'ish era was there a 4 way flasher switch built in to the stock turn signal?
If so, did it rely on the single turn signal flasher relay or did it have a second flasher relay?

Or was there perhaps a different 4 way flasher switch, with its own relay?

(2) I also have a loose extra circuit breaker (12V 30Amp) that was screwed into the cowl firewall behind the dash. It had 2+1 wires hanging on it, but I didn't capture where they went. (You can see it at the top of the "rats' nest photo, three photos up.) Does anyone have a clue what circuit might have been using it? There is a different circuit breaker hanging on the LIGHTS switch, and another one hanging on the wiper switch. ...It's that first guy I don't know anything about.

Thanks.

 

I got a PM that the 1969 stock turn signal did not have a flasher function built in, and that meand I probably need to find that second flasher relay to team up with the dash flasher switch.

 

We received a donation of a stock heater enclosure today (special thanks to Twin2)



Which we'll try to adapt as a Summit heater air intake enclosure... if we can do so tastefully.

Here it is again:



We'll give to a shot. We need to solve the fresh air problem before we hit the road.

 

Looks as if our backup switch is shot.



Someone on this site offered the following, but nobody selling them agrees they are for my 1969 CJ5 F134 T90:

"Here are part numbers, these should be good for the t90, t14, t15 and t86:
Standard NS20
Wells DR429
GP Sorensen LT6
Echlin NS6575 (availible at NAPA only)"​

Has anyone installed any of these p/n's with success as a replacement backup switch on a T90?

Thanks.