Drive Shaft E-brake

I've finally been able to get the housing and brake components off, as well as the yoke. (I removed the bearing cap to replace a leaky seal).

Since the brake didn't work anyway, before I put it back on I want to get it all repaired. Additionally, I want to fix the leaks in my transfer case, as that's why the brake doesn't work (oil on the shoes). But before all that, I want to get her back in the road.

What's the best way to do that? Reinstall the plate and housing to get the correct spacing for the bolts and nuts? Replace bolts with shorter ones and not install the housing? How do I even get that housing back on? Is there an order to reinstallation?

Sorry for so many questions, but it came off easy once the nut came off. Just doesn't go back together very easy.

Tim

 

clean all shims then put a thin layer of permatex sealer(not silicone) on both side of each shim . install bearing housing , short bolt . install backing plate 4 bolts . I like to permatex bolt threads . install shoes . install drum and flange

 

You need sealer (black rtv) or better, on the splines of the output shaft. I put the sealer on the inside of the flange at least 1/2 inch in from the face. I hold the flat washer in place when sliding on the flange. Others here may have other recommendations but this works for me.

 

I know there are some guys whose transfer cases don't leak.....

Do what Ron and Walt said and in addition, see if you can put another seal in front of the one you drive in.

The thing about the driveshaft mounted parking brake is that its not an emergency brake. Works ok as a parking brake. In that sense a bit of oil won't ruin it for that application.

 

So that thing is not supposed to be an emergency brake? I have been trying to get mine to act like one, and although I can stop the Jeep with it, it is nothing like the brake on my Xterra. I can drag the rear tires with it if I apply it hard enough.

My driveway is on a slope and it will hold the Jeep there, but it would never hold it on a hill of any appreciable steepness. I had the same problem as Greenshirt did. Mine was soaked, but I had a bad seal. I ordered the parts, cleaned everything, lubricated the cable to make it operate smoothly, but looking at the way the brake is set up, I see no way to be able to get a lot of pressure on the pads. I am wondering if I can re-design it. I will look at it and see what can be done and then see if I want to do something with it. The rivet that holds the eccentric piece that activates the shoes against the drum is loose on the backing plate. I may have to weld it to make it work the way it should, and change the geometry of the operator to make it work well.

Now, if I could only get some time. I may have to retire so I can get time to work on my jeep. Sad state of affairs, I tell ya!!!

 

Well, I actually had just removed the rear output shaft housing in order to find a leak. See pic below:


And I learned a few things:
1) The TC leaks. It leaks badly. Puddle in the pan underneath (1-2 oz) and plenty wet on the bottom of the TC. This after 48 hours since a cleaning, drain and fill.

2) output flange went on too soon. I should have put it on AFTER I put the p-brake housing on. Sheesh...

3) Shims between the shaft housing and TC definitely leak. I wasn't aware of Permatex, but now will get some. Saw on a thread last night (wish I'd bookmarked it) where the owner sprayed it onto the shims before installing.

4) Most of my leak is from the TC bottom gasket. Next replacement.

5) Does not seem to be any leaks coming from the transmission, or the transmission to TC interface.

6) I should consider replacing the shims/seals/gaskets on the front output, but it doesn't look like it leaks there.

7) I actually need a new rear output shaft housing:


It appears the PO had someone attempt to weld the stud in; as the stud has welding material on it; and actually the stud just appears to be an old bolt as some of the threads still show.

This doesn't appear to be a good lever point; I could see a couple of better ways to mount the lever but it would mean welding and I don't have tools or skills.

Thanks for this Walt. There was a piece of black RTV that came out shaped line a seal on the splines. I had no idea what it was at the time (felt like a spider and startled the crap out of me!).

Thanks Chris. I only use it for parking as well and lately it's not even doing that. I think it's a combination of broken lever arm stud socket (just discovered) and all the oil. One thread mentioned using grease to aid sealing the output bearing cap oil seal. There is supposed to be a gasket between it and the output shaft housing.

Fresh set of seals and gaskets, plus Permatex are all on order and en route.

Regards,
Tim

 

The guys here suggested this or similar
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80697-Gasket-Hi-Temp-Adhesive/dp/B000HBNUDQ
I used brush on "Hi Tack" sealer. My shims don't leak, but the rear output seal does and the yoke is new. I RTVed the splines too.

 

I'll look for it. Thanks much.

 

Here is where someone else had the same problem:
Looking For Pics Of Tcase Rear Bearing Cap Boss For Lever Stud

I have the same problem with the rear cap broken out where the stud fits. I do have the stud and lever. My current plan is to braze the stud in place when I rebuild the T/C in the near future.
Do you know of a source for replacement caps?

 

I have always used sealant on the T/C shims upon final assembly. I use either "high tack" or "copper spray a gasket", both by Permatex. These are aerosol spray cans. The copper version seems to work better, and I also use it on all the paper and cork gaskets too.
-Donny

 

The seal may be leaking in the bore where the seal presses in. I always put some sealer on the outside of the seal then press it in. Common for the bore to get scratched or scored when removing the old seal. The sealer takes up the space and helps prevent leaks.

I don't use the felt washer or the flat "gasket" that goes behind the seal. If you have a good seal, a good yoke seal surface, and good seal to the bore it's unnecessary. It's a vestige of the old leather seals.

I use RTV "Ultra Black" or "The Right Stuff", even on the shims. Works well for me.

 

Thanks for this thread, Mike. I was under impression the stud threaded into the cap, not the other way around.

Only source I can find is a Jeeper with one he's willing to sell. I don't have welding skills or I'd try to repair mine. I'll keep it and try at some point when I can get a welder friend to help.

 

I think you would be a lot better off to replace the cap, welding cast iron is tricky, and not always good. They make a lot of new welding rod for cast iron but they require pre and post heating and a slow cool down. I rebuilt my parking brake when I rebuilt my TC and it works great now. good Luck what ever you do.

 

^ This.

Greenshirt, the reference thread above was me not to long ago. My rear bearing cap boss was sheared just like yours. I am still sourcing the ebrake parts myself and it has been quite the challenge. I have yet to order the ebrake operating lever. When I do, I will have the hole diameter so I know what stud or bolt to use. I still plan to weld mine. You will need to heat that rear bearing cap in a toaster oven at about 450. While its heating, prep a bucket full of mason sand. When you weld on that cast, try to use cast iron specific electrodes. They are very expensive due to the high nickel content. If you cant find any, use some 7018 rod. After you weld, drop the cap in the sand so it cools down slowly. You dont want the different base metal cooling at different rates to quickly. You want to slow that down to mitigate stress cracks - and with that stud mounted there, it will have some shear stress applied to it when you operate the brake.

On the bearing cap, I had to weld the mounting tab for smallest length bolt back on the cap. It cracked when I removed it. This method worked well for me.

If you cant get the tools and material to weld, you might try to drill out your boss to a slightly larger diameter. Thread that hole. Then put a length of smaller diameter all-thread in that hole and inject some JB weld or some other sort of epoxy. The larger diameter threads that you tapped will provide some tooth for the epoxy to hold to. The small all thread should be coated in some silicone release agent. When cured, you would remove the all thread and should be able to thread a same size bolt in there.

 

I decided to replace the bearing cover. @47v6 sold me one that looks new. Ordered new seals and a shim set, plus will order a dial indicator and magnetic base so I can set the end play properly.

That is much easier for me than learning how to weld. I may play with repairing the original some day once I do learn how to weld.

Tim

 

Nope, not an emergency brake. Most vehicles they are not an emergency brake, they are a park brake. Back in the days of single reservoir brake master cylinders some considered them that though.

 

Yeah, I grew up in those days and more than once had to use the handbrake to stop a vehicle. I had a 1952 Cadillac and the four-speed automatic transmission had no "P". To park the car the hand brake was used. It was ok, until winter time, when the brake cables would freeze and then not release the brake shoes from the drums when the brake handle was released. It kinda sucked...