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Info Please: Hanging Pedal, Power Brakes And Hydraulic Clutch

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by prichmon, Apr 28, 2016.

  1. Apr 28, 2016
    prichmon

    prichmon Sponsor

    Huntington WV
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2014
    Messages:
    77
    Eugenia the 64 cj5 F134 with T18 is in need of easier clutch actuation and better braking.

    I am in the process of upgrading to 11" brakes (thanks Pat) and Hanging Pedals ( Thanks Rejeep). Through searching I found most people used late cj or early yj master cylinders.

    I was wondering what parts and vendors you sourced your remaining pieces?

    slave cylinder?
    hydraulic line and fittings?
    Master cylinder/brake booster?
    make, model and/or P/N?

    I was thinking of making a bracket to mount a pull type slave cylinder like this?:
    Speedway Pull Type Slave Cylinder

    Some posts listed using a jeep 2.5L YJ slave cylinder. Did you guys drill the bell housing to mount it? How did you attach to the clutch arm?

    I am obviously not worried so much about originality as ease of install, low cost and functionality.

    Thanks

    Rich
     
  2. Apr 28, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
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    5,801
    first, The hanging pedal install is not easy. You might have to cut the pedal arms to make the fit depending on what you have. Welding a mount to the underside of the cowl is what i went with and also did a bunch of floor and firewall re engineering to make it work.
    2X4 frame for my CJ2A scroll down

    I used the YJ pedals, brake booster/master and clutch master. The later clutch masters use a special fitting. I went with the 7/16-24 one.

    I also used Novaks slave cylinder for buick with release arm.

    I have 4 wheel disks and this brake setup is really awesome.

    The YJ master/ booster reman was 140 bucks with core charge. The Clutch master was 20 bucks. All that stuff bolted directly on to the pedal assembly with no thinking. I got the Novak slave new but from a member here. I made all my own brake and clutch fluid lines. NiCopp tube. Once I fabbed everything up, the clutch and brakes worked the first time with minimal tweaking.
     
  3. Apr 28, 2016
    prichmon

    prichmon Sponsor

    Huntington WV
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2014
    Messages:
    77
    I have intermediate pedals on the way. The tub is a 4wd older fiberglass unit. It is already reinforced in the firewall area. I have a YJ clutch master as per the suggestion of others.

    I looked at the novak units but the F134/t90 doesn't have a clutch arm which passes through the bellhousing. I only have a cable with clevis coming out of the Bell. I've been thinking of having a window cut in the bell similar to Chevy or Bop types but was hoping for a true bolt on mod.

    I had hoped to use the NiCopp for my brake and clutch lines in 3/16". I bought a spool of 25' and tube nuts for it. If the YJ is tapped 7/16-24 I would need an adapter to reduce to 3/16 inverted flare. 7/16 is a big line.

    I replaced the hydraulic clutch parts on an s10 4.3l and it had tiny line of 3/16 or maybe 1/4".
     
  4. Apr 28, 2016
    prichmon

    prichmon Sponsor

    Huntington WV
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2014
    Messages:
    77
    By the way... Anyone have a line on the parking brake lever arm bushing? Mine is nearly gone. Looks like ~3/8" ID x 7/16" OD x maybe 7/16" tall?
     
  5. Apr 29, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    I would make my own or buy a new bushing and press it in. Mc Master Carr is a source for bushings.

    The 7/16-24 is the fitting size for the 3/16 brake line. Its big and I had to order them. Speedway, jegs or summit carries them plus amazon. The brake master had 7/16-24 and 1/2-20 fittings for the 3/16 YJ brake master lines.

    I am aware of the clutch release cable and I do think that with some engineering you can fabricate a pull style slave bracket system that could work fine.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
     
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