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Wheel stud issues

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by bkcraun, Apr 15, 2016.

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  1. Apr 15, 2016
    bkcraun

    bkcraun New Member

    Virginia
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    Nov 27, 2015
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    Hope someone can help me out here. 1958 Jeep CJ5. I broke a wheel stud and ordered a replacement. It's the reverse thread stud. The stud I received has too long of a shaft at the base and wont allow the brake cover plate to go back on flush.
    Anyone has a source for the proper studs or have one handy they can send? I'll pay pal you.

    Thanks

    Bill
     
    bkcraun, Apr 15, 2016
    #1
  2. Apr 15, 2016
    pat w

    pat w Member

    washougal wa
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    Bill is this a front or rear stud? I'm not sure exactly what a "brake cover plate is" can you enlighten me? A picture of what you are fighting with and maybe a pic of the old and new stud may also help
     
    pat w, Apr 15, 2016
    #2
  3. Apr 15, 2016
    bkcraun

    bkcraun New Member

    Virginia
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    Nov 27, 2015
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    Rear stud. I'm talking about the brake drum itself. Studs have that that flat head and than a larger area with groves that pull into the hub, then have the threaded area.
    The stud I got has a longer "grooved" area than the stud I pulled out. Sorry, no pictures.
     
    bkcraun, Apr 15, 2016
    #3
  4. Apr 15, 2016
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Are you asking about the brake drum mounted on the rear of the TransferCase?
     
    1960willyscj5, Apr 15, 2016
    #4
  5. Apr 15, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I assume you mean the flat area of the brake drum won't go over it? Where did you get the stud from? Places like Walck's 4WD should have the right length.
     
    Glenn, Apr 15, 2016
    #5
  6. Apr 15, 2016
    pat w

    pat w Member

    washougal wa
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    Still kind of confused..I think at this point what I would do is take the old stud to a Napa, car quest etc and have them match it up by knurl diameter, length etc. how did you order the stud to begin with? By application?
     
    pat w, Apr 15, 2016
    #6
  7. Apr 15, 2016
    bkcraun

    bkcraun New Member

    Virginia
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    Nov 27, 2015
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    Correct, the flat area of the drum won't go flush to the hub if the wheel stud is pulled all the way in by torqueing the lug nut down.
    It's the left rear wheel. I'll try Walks. Thanks all.
     
    bkcraun, Apr 15, 2016
    #7
  8. Apr 15, 2016
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    Do yourself a favor and just put new right hand threaded lugs in. Any flaps should have a box of Dorman studs on the shelf.
     
    Daryl, Apr 15, 2016
    #8
    47v6 and Twin2 like this.
  9. Apr 17, 2016
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Speaking of that, do most of you just out in right handed studs or keep the left to be correct?
     
    mickeykelley, Apr 17, 2016
    #9
  10. Apr 17, 2016
    pat w

    pat w Member

    washougal wa
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    Unless doing a correct type restoration I don't see the point in using left handed studs so they all get replaced with rights
     
    pat w, Apr 17, 2016
    #10
  11. Apr 17, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    My military are still correct because that's what I want. Jeeps no since there is more probability of someone besides me removing or installing tires.
     
    Glenn, Apr 17, 2016
    #11
  12. Apr 17, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    I took mine to Les Schwab, they had the studs on hand and they did it for me. Knowing what I know now...I would have saved some labor $ and did it myself.

    When I did my disc brake conversion I was able to gently but firmly knock out the wheel studs without resorting to the BFH.
    [​IMG]

    To install the new studs, line up the splines and tap them into place with a punch. I used my air gun on its lowest setting to secure the rotor and hub.
    [​IMG]

    I worked in a star pattern using the impact gun on its highest setting to suck the new stud through. If you plan to use your old lug nuts you could risk flattening the tapered end.
    [​IMG]
     
    Focker, Apr 17, 2016
    #12
  13. Apr 17, 2016
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    I think it's cool to keep the lefties. It's a Jeep Thing.
     
    PeteL, Apr 17, 2016
    #13
  14. Apr 17, 2016
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Didn't other vehicles back in the day do the left vs right?
     
    mickeykelley, Apr 17, 2016
    #14
  15. Apr 17, 2016
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
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    Sure, my '53 Buick has L&R hand lug bolts and my '92 Mitsu Fuso has L and R hand threads.
     
    uncamonkey, Apr 17, 2016
    #15
  16. Apr 17, 2016
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    A number did. I think maybe Jeep held on to it longer than most. And of those vehicles still on the road, I'd guess Jeeps would be a majority by far.
     
    PeteL, Apr 17, 2016
    #16
  17. Apr 17, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I would imagine that most if not all of the older military vehicles had left and right, G741 (M37 and variants) definitely have left and right.
     
    Glenn, Apr 17, 2016
    #17
  18. Apr 17, 2016
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    I have a big brass drift that knocks them in and out easily.
     
    Daryl, Apr 17, 2016
    #18
  19. Apr 18, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    My '64 Beetle had left hand threads too.
     
    Focker, Apr 18, 2016
    #19
  20. Apr 18, 2016
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Ok, we won't believe you until you post a pic.
     
    mickeykelley, Apr 18, 2016
    #20
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